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Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Additional Information Elevation: 25551 ft / 7788 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview


well, it has been climbed by many mountaineers, it required alot of technical climbing. The easiest route is from Bagrot vally which is nearest to the town of Gilgit (Northern Areas of Pakistan). the mountain is situated is in Nagger Valley but the veiw point from Hunza Karimabad is fasinating.

Getting There


Route - A) Islamabad - Gilgit - Bagrot - Rakaposhi Base Camp.

Route - B) Islamabad - Gilgit - Minapin - Taga Fari (Rakaposhi Base Camp)

Red Tape


According to Ministry of Tourism Pakistan peaks above 6500m required climbing permit from Goverment of Pakistan.

yes there is summit fees.

Expedition climbing season starts from early May - till mid September.

yes, there are rules for wildelife conservation.

No.

When To Climb


the time of year for climbing early May till mid September. It is extremely difficult in off season.

Camping


Only camping is accessible, there is no any single commersial huts either fees.

Mountain Conditions


You can contact with Concordia Expeditions Pakistan
0092-51-5510308.


Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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BigLee

BigLee - Dec 23, 2005 7:07 am - Voted 1/10

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Rakaposhi's northern base camp is approached from the village of Minapin. Public transport leaves Gilgit's Khazana Road, near the golden Peak Inn, for Minapin usually around 1 and 2pm. There is no direct transport between Karimabad and Minapin so the best bet is to take transport to the turnoff on the KKH and walk/hitch from there. This approach is also best for those wanting leave Gilgit early in the morning.
From Minapin (2012m) it is a 1200m climb to BC that can be done in 1 to 2 days (5-7 hrs total) breaking the climb in Hapakun (2804m) if necessary.
Rakaposhi's eastern base camp is approached from the village of Chirah. Gilgit-Chirah jeeps depart from Gilgit's Garhi Bagh around midday, returning early next morning. The walk to base camp is best divided into two days spending the first night at the grassy area of Biyabari at the start of the Hinarche glacier. The second day follows the glacier up its right (eastern) side taking most of the day to reach the Bagrot glacier and Rakaposhi's base camp.

Josh

Josh - Jan 16, 2006 2:55 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

The other names of Rakaposhi are Rakapushi and Dumani. Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey of a Britain-Pakistan expedition. Both of them suffered severe frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.

Rakaposhi is climbable from all sides. Rakaposhi peak can also be approached from Manapin on the left south bank of the Hunza River, is reached by some one hour walking from Pisan (2445m), situated on the KKH. The nearest camping ground is at Gulmet, about two hours walkto west. From Minapin follow the trail that is een climbing south just behaind the Manapin rest house. For the first few km the ascent is steep and arduous, it crosses the terminal moraine of the Minapin Glacier. As walking furter, keeping to the left of the glacier, the entire Rakaposhi-Diran ridge lines comes into view. After another 6 hours walk come to a campsite where the night can be spent. The trail continues along the left side of the Manipan glacier and finally arrives at a grean meadow, this is the base camp of rakaposhi. Rakaposhi can also be approached from Jaglot and the base camp is established west of rakaposhi in the Biro glacier basin and at the foot of a ridge falling from secord peak (5900m).

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