i'm never sure how much i should worry about rap anchors, i know it exerts far less force than a leader fall, but as you mention, the consequences of failure are very high.
i like how all the most insane anchors are in canyoneering photos, those guys get away with the craziest shit.
Think it would be an important thing to put in there which side of the rope to pull. Alot of the time, even with a single rope rappel, not pulling the right side or not paying attention and letting them get tangled while you pull them, can bring one of the more dangerous situations. Especially in places where you're truly on your own. No room for error. (i.e. in a chimney pulling the left side of the rope instead of the right side in which case the left side is rubbing against the rock could make the difference of a stuck rope or not) Also, ascending a stuck rope is one of the most important skills to know imo. Mainly because it's happened to me (or us on the big Ship)countless times. Through error, it's the little things that can make a huge difference. Thought I would add that. Otherwise, great information! Thanks for putting the work into this.
what determines the appropriate length for edk tails? I've done lots of tests, falling on an edk, and the knot simply doesn't move, if dressed correctly. But 6" recommendation is better than the 6' I've seen recommended elsewhere! I actually use > 6", and tie an extra edk. I do that mainly to keep partners from freaking.
No idea who came up with the set numbers but you're right, some people use crazy long tails. I do the same as you and tie a separate knot against the first one and call it good. Never once have I seen any sign of budging whatsoever.
Good article that might help some folks live through more climbing seasons. The piton right next to the rock art was a crappy idea, assuming the rock art is old, and not some tourist scraping.
As a reinforcement of your recommendation against trusting old-looking slings, I once returned to Concord Tower, beside Liberty Bell in the North Cascades, and found the chock I'd rapped off 9 years earlier. It's dark purple cord had faded to almost white in the sun. I could split the mantle on the cord just by spreading it with my thumbs.
Jeremy Hakes - Apr 18, 2013 9:19 am - Voted 10/10
Great infoNice work on this, Brian.
Brian Kalet - Apr 18, 2013 1:45 pm - Hasn't voted
Snow AnchorsGreat article! Maybe add a section on snow anchors?
jacobsmith - Apr 20, 2013 3:10 am - Voted 10/10
great articlei'm never sure how much i should worry about rap anchors, i know it exerts far less force than a leader fall, but as you mention, the consequences of failure are very high.
i like how all the most insane anchors are in canyoneering photos, those guys get away with the craziest shit.
Fletch - Apr 22, 2013 12:43 pm - Voted 10/10
ExcellentThanks Brian - very nicely done...
mfox79 - Apr 22, 2013 6:53 pm - Hasn't voted
ThanksA very well written article. thanks for sharing!
Brian C - Apr 23, 2013 9:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: SERENEI added a short table that talks very briefly about what the different parts of the acronym means. I hope that helps!
-BC
Sarah Simon - Apr 23, 2013 6:14 pm - Voted 10/10
Someof your "don't do this" photos gave me the chills. I wouldn't even lower my backpack off of some of those anchors, let alone me! -S
Brian C - Apr 23, 2013 9:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: SomeHaha. The sad thing is most of the ones that were my photos I have rappelled off of...
For the record, I still think canyoneers are the real brave peeps out there!
noahs213 - Apr 27, 2013 11:15 pm - Hasn't voted
Some thoughtsBrian,
Think it would be an important thing to put in there which side of the rope to pull. Alot of the time, even with a single rope rappel, not pulling the right side or not paying attention and letting them get tangled while you pull them, can bring one of the more dangerous situations. Especially in places where you're truly on your own. No room for error. (i.e. in a chimney pulling the left side of the rope instead of the right side in which case the left side is rubbing against the rock could make the difference of a stuck rope or not) Also, ascending a stuck rope is one of the most important skills to know imo. Mainly because it's happened to me (or us on the big Ship)countless times. Through error, it's the little things that can make a huge difference. Thought I would add that. Otherwise, great information! Thanks for putting the work into this.
Adventure Punk - May 4, 2013 2:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Great ArticleThanks for the article. Been studying/practicing repelling lately so glad this info was here!
MeanUncleDon - Jul 30, 2014 1:20 pm - Voted 8/10
Awesome InsightThanks for your post. I wish more people would take time to post more information like this.
Sierra Ledge Rat - Aug 21, 2015 2:50 pm - Hasn't voted
Novice v. ExperiencedYou can always tell novice climbers from real climbers from their attitude towards rapping.
Novice climbers like rapping, real climbers don't.
MoapaPk - Aug 28, 2015 5:07 pm - Hasn't voted
edk tailswhat determines the appropriate length for edk tails? I've done lots of tests, falling on an edk, and the knot simply doesn't move, if dressed correctly. But 6" recommendation is better than the 6' I've seen recommended elsewhere! I actually use > 6", and tie an extra edk. I do that mainly to keep partners from freaking.
Brian C - Aug 29, 2015 10:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: edk tailsNo idea who came up with the set numbers but you're right, some people use crazy long tails. I do the same as you and tie a separate knot against the first one and call it good. Never once have I seen any sign of budging whatsoever.
Eric Sandbo - Aug 31, 2015 8:55 pm - Voted 10/10
Thanks!Good article that might help some folks live through more climbing seasons. The piton right next to the rock art was a crappy idea, assuming the rock art is old, and not some tourist scraping.
As a reinforcement of your recommendation against trusting old-looking slings, I once returned to Concord Tower, beside Liberty Bell in the North Cascades, and found the chock I'd rapped off 9 years earlier. It's dark purple cord had faded to almost white in the sun. I could split the mantle on the cord just by spreading it with my thumbs.
Jarpup - Sep 7, 2015 12:47 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice workHelpful stuff. Thank you. Just to second a post above, a section on snow/ice anchors would be nice as well.