Location: Wine Spires, just E of Washington Pass
Route: East Face (Rebel Yell)
Difficulty: III, 5.10, 7p
Summit Elevation: 8,380 ft
Elevation gain: ~600' of climbing on the east face
Approach: A climber's trail begins off HWY 20 at elev. 4250' and heads eastward up to Burgundy Col; traverse through the col and onto the upper Silver Star Glacier; the route starts off the upper Silver Star Glacier (<5 miles, 3500' up, xx hours) (Note: alternate approach is via Silver Creek from HWY 20)
Descent: rappel route with 2 ropes
Time: 1-2 days (can be done car-to-car or can camp at col)
HWY 20 Parking: 4,250 ft
Burgundy Col: 7,720 ft
Start of route on Silver Star Glacier: 7,900 ft
Summit: 8,380 ft
2 60m ropes (need 2 for rappels), slings, rack to 4" with doubles of #0.75, #1, #2, and #3 (actually we had a #3 and #3.5), ice axe and crampons for approach
Chianti Spire is located outside of the North Cascades National Park, so permits are not needed.
Parking to Burgundy Col: 3 hours
Burgundy Col to base of route: <1 hour from camp and we were climbing
Climbing route: 6 hours (this includes some time we had to spend on a cam that got very stuck)
Descending route: 40 minutes
Hike out: 2.1 hours
| || Pitch 1: 5.8, 140 feet |
Flakes and cracks to the base of the obvious offwidth in the dihedral. There seem to be several options here.
| || Pitch 2: 5.9, 80 feet |
Short fist crack to wide offwidth. It's easier than it looks if you can find the face features and thin cracks around it. Belay on a small stance (horizontal crack for feet) just above.
| || Pitch 3: 5.7, 100 feet |
Easy climbing up a lower angle dihedral. Belay at a slung block on the right about 30 feet below a headwall in the dihedral. (We linked this pitch with the previous.)
| || Pitch 4: 5.8, 70 feet |
Slabs and cracks to an airy blind frictiony move to the left over an arete. Then traverse further left on good cracks to a sloping ledge directly below a steep thin hand crack (one bolt).
| || Pitch 5: 5.10, 100 feet |
Climb up the thin hands crack (steep and strenuous). The crack then opens up to cupped hands (#3 Camalot), and then even wider (#3.5 to #4 Camalot). Belay at a small but good stance below the final section of offwidth (bolt here).
| || Pitch 6: 5.8, 140 feet |
More offwidth climbing (dihedral and other features keep things 5.8 here). Finally, a ramp on the left leads to the base of the summit block.
| || Pitch 7: 5.7, 20 feet |
Fun moves on good holds lead up the summit block to the tiny summit. There's an old bolt at the top. Time for the rebel yell!
| || Descent: |
It's recommended to rap the route with two ropes. We did 4 double-rope rappels. The first rappel is off the summit block. The second is from the top of Pitch 5. The third and fourth (for us) were directly down from Pitch 5 on a slabby area to the climber's left of the climbing route. The fourth rappel brought us onto the snow. Some parties opt to swing over to the top of Pitch 4 on their third rappel instead of rappelling straight down as we did.