I am no doubt one of the few to climb this one after other routes on the Hulk. With Peter S. I led the cruxes, pitches 1-3 as one (great suggestion-full 70m from under the first bulge), the dihredral itself (to me the 5.10b move is appropriately graded (it is awkward and requires you to find the singular sequence)and the 7th pitch which has a fantastic 5.10a splitter on it. The rest of the route moves fairly quickly as noted. We made the face in 6 pitches and then the shorter 2 pitches to the summit. You do need a 70m to do it from the belays, but it is definitely the way to go: 1-3; 4; 5-6; 7; 8-9(half); 9(half)-10; 11; 12. The descent does suck (loose scree and such, thus I concur you should always rap when doing any of the other routes. We did it base to base in 6hrs+. Had then entire face to ourselves on a Sunday! (inclement weather forecast)
Had the route to ourselves on labor day... something like 5 parties on it the day before.
Loved it. Got to lead both 5.10 crux pitches.
Threatening t-storms kept the crowds at bay. car-to-car with Parker
Eric and I were the 5th team on the wall starting at 10am and another team started up after us. Two other teams were on PV and another team of 2 was on Venturi. It was a very busy day on the Hulk and I didn't expect to see many other parties. We finished a bit before sunset and hiked out just before midnight.
Amazingly awesome place if you like quality alpine rock climbing! Great ski descent in the NW couloir as well for winter fun
don't miss the splitter .10 crack up higher
Did RD with Adam as a warm-up for the Positive Vibe the next day. RD was nice enough(although it felt pretty soft for the grade after having climbed in the Needles), but PV is world-class.
My partner was sick so joined Pavel and Michal... excellent day with some nice guys! http://sightly.net/peter/trips/reddihedral2008/
than I thought... Peter's partner fell ill so we ended up doing the route as a party of three (with Michal and Peter). Definitely one of the more memorable climbs - if the RD pitch is 5.9 then I don't know what some other 9's are... Great day climbing. Started around 8am, top at 4.20pm, back at camp around 6.30.
It was just a beautiful, fun climb. Stick to the Supertopo guidebook (excet for the approach) and you won't go wrong.