RED: Lyell Glacier to the...

RED: Lyell Glacier to the East Arete (class 3-5 depending on conditions)
BLUE: Lyell Maclure Col (class 2-3)
GREEN: Maclure Southeast Ridge

The East arete can be quite tricky and require some very exposed moves that may be difficult to downclimb.


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bahakev - Jun 28, 2010 4:14 pm - Hasn't voted


Tried the east arete route of Mt. Lyell on Saturday, and I agree -- it is super exposed with a sheer cliff down the south side. It deterred me from continuing after a few bold climbing moves opened up more difficult terrain. I ended up summiting via the "chimney" area just to the west of the east arete on the north face. That is not much easier of a climb, but is less exposed and is shorter.

bahakev - Jun 28, 2010 4:17 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Agreed.

I will add that the snow was very high -- almost to the top of the arete -- creating less climbing options. It could be easier with less snow cover (not sure).

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