Report of Mountaineering Expedition visited Pakistan during 2008

Report of Mountaineering Expedition visited Pakistan during 2008

Page Type Page Type: Article
Activities Activities: Mountaineering
87 applications were received for grant of Permission to climb various peaks in Pakistan including 01 expedition attempting Broad Peak in winter season. Out of which 76 applicants were granted permission to climb respective Peaks of their choice including 09 applicants who were granted permission to climb 02 peaks each, 03 expedition permitted to climbe 03-peaks each and one expedition was permitted to climb 4-peaks whereas 02 expeditions could not be granted permission to climb peaks situated close to war zone Siachen Glacier, and 06 expeditions withdrew their applications. As such overall 92 attempts were made by 634 members of 76 expeditions, to climb 24 peaks, out of which 131 climbers including 03 from Pakistan, were successful in hoisting their national Flags on the summit of 12 peaks.

K2 (8611-M) Chogori

K2 8611-M

This year was unluckily year for K2 climbers. K2 lived up to its name and proved its nature of being a savage mountain by claiming 11 lives in one day i.e. on 1st of August 2008.
This year 74 climbers of 10 expeditions tried to summit the savage mountain K-2, out of which 17 climbers of 06 expeditions were successful in hoisting their National Flags on top of K2 including one Pakistani Mountaineer Meharban Karim who unluckily had a fatal fall while descending from the summit. But unluckily 24 climber while crossing bottleneck were caught in an avalanche on 1st August 2008 some of them were swept away to destiny some sliped down after climbing the peak to be buried under tons of snow for ever around the summit of the Savage mountain K2. It lived upto its nickname of Savage Mountain and claimed 11 lives including 02 Pakistani Climbers.
Norvegian K2 Expedition 2008
Norvegian K2 Expedition 2008

Go Mi Sun Member of Flying Jump Korea K2 Expedition 2008

Nanga Parbat 8125-M

Fairy Meadows Nanga Parbat 8125-M

10 Expeditions visited Pakistan this year to surmount the invincible Nanga Parbat but only 03 expeditions were successful in putting 17 out of 55 climbers on top of this invincible mountain including 2 Pakistani climbers that is Nisar Hussain and Muhammad Ali. It may be mentioned here that Mr. Nisar Hussain has completed the tally of all five Mountains above 8000 meters situated in Pakistan.
This year a Winter Expedition led by Jacek Teler tried to summit Nanga Parbat but they didn’t summit the peak due to bad weather and heavy snow and logistic difficulties.In this season unluckily 02 mountaineers laid their lives while attempting this peak.
Leila Esfandiary Kajoryrad
First Iranian Nanga Parbat 8125-M Expedition Members

German Amical Alpine Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008
Gasherbrum I 8068-M (Hidden Peak)

Gasherbrum I 8068-M

Broad Peak (8051 m), Karakoram, Pakistan

It was not a very successful climbing year for G-I. 95 members of 12 Expeditions tried to surmount impregnable G-I out of which only 14 climbers of 04 Expeditions succeeded in putting their National Flags on the summit of G-I, remaining 08 expeditions have returned un-successful. Unluckily there was one casualty on this peak Mr. Jean Noel a prominent Skier and climber died while climbing G-I on 16th June 2008.

Broad Peak 8047-M

Russian Broad Peak Expedition 2008

Overall 12 Expeditions tried their luck on Broad Peak, out of which 07 Expeditions have been successful in putting 29 members on the summit of Broad Peak and 05 Expeditions have returned un-successful. In addition one Polish winter expedition Led by Mr. Arthur trying its luck to climb Broad peak .
Unluckily Mr. Valdimir Plulik of Slovakia had a fatal fall while attempting Broad Peak on 26th June 2008.
Member of Korean Broad Peak Expedition 2008
Spantik 7027-M

Gasherbrum II 8035-M

This year 150 members of 17 Expeditions were granted permission to climb G-II, out of which 11 expedition were successful. The mountain’s summit stats added up 38 new names in 2008.
Note: climbers reported that only a fraction of those reporting success July 6th actually made the true top. A similar situation unfolded later on Manaslu, both occasions mainly involving several large commercial teams. Out of around 20 summits originally reported around July 6th on GII, only 6 ended up confirmed

Spantik 7027M

Italian Simone Moro

Unlike last year the current year was an unlucky year for climbers on Spantik. Only one Italian Expedition led by Mr. Roberto returned successful by putting both of its members on the summit. All other 12 expeditions have returned unsuccessful due to bad weather.

K7 6934-M

This year K7 had been attempted by 02 Expeditions and both returned successful by putting 5 members on the summit.

Bekka Brakai Chhok 6940-M

Batura 7795-M East Face from Passu

A New Zealand Expedition led by Ms. Patricia Deavall tried to summit this peak on 12th July 2008 with Ms.Patricia Deavoll of Newzealand and Mr. Malcolm Bass of Britain but they didn’t summit the peak.
Italian Simone Moro claimed to have achieved the first complete ascent on Bekka Brakai Chhok in the first week of August, teaming up with Hervé Barmasse. In his season’s end chronicle, Brazilian statistician Rodrigo Granzotto confirmed the achievement, mentioning Pat Deavall’s climb as “attempt.” Patricia Deavall and Malcom Bass in addition reported to media themselves that they gave up when the ridge proved increasingly difficult as snow conditions worsened

K6 7282-M (Baltistan Peak), Kapura 6544-M , Batura II 7762-M

Gasherbrum IV

One expedition each was launched on each of the above 03 peaks and all have returned Successful by putting 02 members each on the respective Summits of the Peaks.

Muztagh Tower 7273-M

Unluckily Mr. Pavle Kozjek of Slovenia leader of the Slovenian Expedition on Muztagh Tower died while climbing on 25th August 2008.

Expeditions to all Other Peaks

Rakaposhi 7788-M
Spanish G IV Expedition 2008 Members

Expeditions to other 12 peaks i.e. Gasherburm-III & IV, Latok-I & III, Raka Poshi, Skyang Kangri, Dastagil Sar, Diran, Muztagh Tower, Chogo Lisa, Tahu Rutum and Bantha Brakk failed to climb any peak. The Spanish team led by Alberto Iñurrategi on GIV reached the peak's northern (not main) summit, according to later reports.
Spanish G IV Expedition 2008 Members

Total Number of Summiteers

In all 132 mountaineers of 39 Expeditions have been successful in reaching the summit of above-mentioned 12 mountains.


Pakistan mountains have kept 16 climbers in 2008. Eleven died on K2, one on Broad Peak, two on Nanga Parbat and one on Gasherbrum climber was died on Muztagh Tower.


1. Mr. Kim Hyo - Gyeong Korean
2. Mr. Park Kyeong - Hyo Koream
3. Mr. Hwang Dong - Jin Korean
4. Mr. Jumik Bhote Napali
5. Mr. Pasang Bhote Napali
6. Mr. Jehan Baig Pakistan HAP
7. Mr. Meherban Karim Pakistan HAP
8. Mr. Daubarede Hugues Jean - Louis Marie French
9. Mr. Gerard McDonnell Irish
10. Mr. Dren Mandic Serbian
11 Mr. Rolf Bae Norwegian
Injured Persons
Mr. Wilco van Rooijen Dutch
Mr. Cas Van De Gevel Dutch
Mr. Marco Confortola Italian


Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-10 of 10

drshahidiqbal - Jan 14, 2009 2:26 pm - Voted 10/10


Hi dear Karrar. you have put wonderful report. it is good effort to comple all data at on place and it will help other to get guidance. Congrats on this good work.

Karrar Haidri

Karrar Haidri - Jan 15, 2009 10:57 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Excellent

Dear Doctor Shahid, Thank you for your vote and nice comments to my contribution!Cheers.


visentin - Jan 18, 2009 5:07 am - Voted 10/10

the season for Broad Peak is not...

finished... 2 Polish and 1 Canadian are attempting right now the first winter ascent of Broad Peak:
in English (google-translated) :
or :,com_myblog/Itemid,34/
The Canadian is SP member Don Bowie :
The 2 others are Robert Szymczak and the famous polish hymalayist Artur Hajzer

Karrar Haidri

Karrar Haidri - Jan 18, 2009 6:07 am - Hasn't voted

Re: the season for Broad Peak is not...

Thank you for your vote and comments, Yes you are right that one expedition led by Artur Hajzer(two Polish and one Canadian) are attempting the Broad Peak, According to my information they are waiting for good weather after establishing C3, If the weather will permit they will summit Broad Peak.
The information about their expedition I already mentioned in my report i-e
Overall 12 Expeditions tried their luck on Broad Peak, out of which 07 Expeditions have been successful in putting 29 members on the summit of Broad Peak and 05 Expeditions have returned un-successful. In addition one Polish winter expedition Led by Mr. Artur trying its luck to climb Broad peak.


BigLee - Jan 18, 2009 5:28 pm - Hasn't voted


You may want to add that one person also died attempting Shimshal Whitehorn

Karrar Haidri

Karrar Haidri - Jan 19, 2009 11:39 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Fatalities...

White Horn 6303-M is a trekking peak which lies in the open zone as such the team neither need a permit nor they report to Ministry of Tourism or Alpine Club of Pakistan,Therefore the casualty of British Climber Ben Cheek who was missed in July 2008 on White Horn 6303-M not reflected in the report.


dadndave - Jan 24, 2009 6:52 pm - Voted 10/10

Interesting summary

- of the years events in this fantastic area. It seems that there is a policy to prevent the kind of pressure on the environment that we see in the Khumbu Region of Nepal. Is that so? Some remarks by you on this would be interesting.
Sad to hear of 16 adventurous lives lost.

Karrar Haidri

Karrar Haidri - Jan 26, 2009 11:36 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Interesting summary

Thank you very much for your nice comments and vote.We are very much concerned about the negative impact on environment due to increase number of Mountaineers and Trekkers visiting Karakoram Region.
We are trying to find a solution to reduce this impact in this region.I am grateful showing your concerned in this matter.

Member Executive Council
Alpine Club of Pakistan

Ski Mountaineer

Ski Mountaineer - Jan 24, 2009 11:35 pm - Hasn't voted

Luis Stitzinger

You forgot Luis Stitzinger's (Germany) ascent of Nanga Parbat via the Kinshofer Route, traverse of the 10km long Mazeno ridge, and finally ski decent of a new route through the Diamir Face - all that in 25hrs. For me one of the greatest achievements in ski mountaineering history.

Karrar Haidri

Karrar Haidri - Jan 26, 2009 12:04 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Luis Stitzinger

Thank you very much for indicating valuable information.It is definitely a unique achievement and must be reflected in records,for more detail visit

Thanks again.


Viewing: 1-10 of 10