Right Toilet Crack

Page Type
Route
Location:
Utah, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.9 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
2

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Right Toilet Crack
Created On: Nov 2, 2006
Last Edited On: Nov 3, 2006

Approach

From the end of the canyon at Temple of Sinawava jump the woodden fence behind the toilets. There is a faint climbers path that will take you up and towards the base of the climb. You will notice the Tourist crack on your right but you need to go north (direction of Narrows) and uphill around the corner of the large buttress. Once around the corner, you will see the distinct dihedral forming the Right Toilet Crack. To the left of the Right Toilet Crack is another two-pitch crack climb called the Left Toilet Crack.
Right Toilet CrackToilet Cracks.


You will have quite an audience when climbing this route as many tourists will stop and watch you climbing. This route will stay in the shade in the morning and sunny in the afternoon.

Route Description

This is a two pitch crack but getting to the base of the first pitch requires mantling a tree which felt like a 5.7 move so roping up is a good idea. The first pitch is quite physical starting with a wide opening move which takes a #5 camalot unfortunately this also blocks your best foot hold. Jam your way until you are in the squeeze. The left wall of the squeeze takes small gear. Reach above the roof for a good hand jam and get your self out of the squeeze. The rest of the crack gets smaller but footholds appear on the side walls. Belay at the bolt anchor.
Right Toilet CrackBase of the climb
Right Toilet CrackBeginning of first pitch.
Right Toilet CrackSqueeze section of the crack.
Right Toilet CrackAbove the squeeze


The second pitch is a lot more aesthetic and regular which is relatively wide (#3 camalot). Stem and jam your way to the bolt anchors in the right facing corner.

Essential Gear

Set of TCUs from blue to red, doubles of #0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3 camalots, one #3.5 and one #5 camalot for the opening move of the first pitch. Single 60m rope is sufficient to rappel down.






Right Toilet Crack

Route
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Geography

Routes in Utah