Rock Climbing in the Dolomites

Rock Climbing in the Dolomites

Page Type Page Type: Article
Activities Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering, Big Wall

The Dolomites, UNESCO World Heritage Site, are among the most spectacular mountains in the world.

The Dolomites are marvelous and legendary mountains. They are the most evocative peaks of the Alps, the mountainous chain that -with its magnetic charm- gave birth to mountaineering.

The Dolomites are the Paradise of climbers and mountaineers that in these mountains find endless challenges, countless possibilities and unlimited satisfactions through the colourful, majestic and spectacular Dolomia walls. These mounts offer an infinity of exciting walls and spectacular peaks that reward the hikers with peerless landscapes.

Mountaineers, lovers of the trad or sports climbing and boulders can count on a limitless series of climbing routes in the Dolomites, both single-pitch and multi-pitch; fantastic itineraries that -overcoming exciting couloirs, evocative gorges, vertiginous cliffs, majestic walls and scenic ledges and ridges- lead them to peaks that dominate the evocative and wonderful valleys of the Dolomites, offering amazing views.

Climbing in the Dolomites can take place through routes of any lengths and difficulties; any mountaineer, from the beginners that approach climbing to the expert climbers, will find in these mountains an infinity of paths perfect for his/her skills and ambitions.

On the Dolomites we can find some among the most beautiful and renowned classic climbs of the Alps. Many important pages of the mountaineering history have, actually, been written among the dolomitic walls; ventures of men that stood out for heart, courage and passion. Angelo Dibona, Emilio Comici, Riccardo Cassin, Ettore Costantini, Gino Soldà, Hermann Buhl, Gian Battista Vinatzer… bequeathed us incredibly beautiful and evocative climbing routes. Repeating these classic routes means retracing the achievements of those amazing pioneers and living strong and deep emotions that will remain indelible.

Those who have little experience and training but want to taste the thrill of climbing a mountain and reaching its top can, instead, climb one of the many spectacular “vie normali” (normal routes) of the Dolomites; they are easy paths, with no particular technical issues, that seldom are more than IV° and that follow the weak points of the mountain until the conquest of the summit.

Climbing in the Dolomites can also be done, with great satisfaction, through the very many sport routes that in the last years have been opened on the dolomitic walls; among slabs, roofs, dihedrals and fissures, one climbs looking for the most "aesthetic" line, for the technical passage and for the athletic feat.

Moreover, the dolomites offer the chance to train or to learn how to climb on many crags and real “climbing walls” like the famous Cinque Torri, the gym of rock climbing in Cortina d'Ampezzo that offers hundreds of climbing routes.

Some of the most beautiful spots to climb in the Dolomites

5 Torri
A mythical and very scenic group of rocky towers in Cortina d'Ampezzo. Climbers can spend one or more fantastic days to climb a wide range of multi-pitch routes and thrilling sport climbing.

Tofana di Rozes in Cortina d'Ampezzo
In the Tofane group -Cortina d'Ampezzo- there are some of the most beautiful classic Dolomite routes, which climb the majestic wall along itineraries up to 800 meters long, such as the Eötvös Dimai Climbing Route.

Lagazuoi, Falzarego Towers, Col dei Bos, Lastoi de Formin, Cristallo, are other fantastic spots in Cortina d'Ampezzo, where climbers can find beautiful routes to climb, of every grade and type.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo
An iconic place -between Auronzo di Cadore and Sexten- coveted by climbers from all over the world, offering extraordinary climbing routes in a unique environment. Along the majestic north faces of the Tre Cime there are legendary routes such as the Comici Dimai Climbing Route to the Cima Grande di Lavaredo.

The "Queen of the Dolomites" is another of the most coveted destinations in the Dolomites by mountaineers and climbers. Along the grandiose south face of the Marmolada there are over 200 climbing routes, many of these are masterpieces of mountaineering history: Fish route, Don Quixote route, Vinatzer Messer route, Tempi Moderni route, ...

Sella Group, Sella Towers, Piz Ciavazes and Pordoi are splendid spots -between Val di Fassa, Val Gardena and Alta Badia- to climb with a rich selection of rock climbing routes. Fedele Climbing Route, Diedro Buhl Climbing Route, Messner climbing route, are just some of the countless routes that deserve to be climbed.

The Sassolungo group is a massif in the western Dolomites, between Val di Fassa and Val Gardena. The most remarkable climbing routes lie on the north and northeast faces of this imposing massif. Extremely interesting is the climbing of the normal route to Sassolungo, one of the most beautiful in the Dolomites.

Vajolet Towers
The Vajolet Towers -spectacular rock formation in the Dolomites of Val di Fassa- are part of the Rosengarten group, a very popular climbing spot. The most interesting climbing routes are in the southern towers, such as Spigolo Piaz climbing route on Torre Delago.

Pale di San Martino
The Pale -San Martino di Castrozza- are a very large group and certainly offer many of the most beautiful routes in the Dolomites such as the Spigolo del Velo climbing route. In Tognazza -Passo Rolle- you can climb porphyry, a rock of volcanic origin.

Brenta Dolomites
It is a very large mountain group, characterized by the severity of the environments and the wild nature. From normal routes to extreme sport or classic climbing routes, the Brenta Dolomites -Madonna di Campiglio- preserve an incredible historical mountaineering heritage.

Relying on the mountain guides in the Dolomites it is possible to safely climb a climbing route, both sport and trad, spend wonderful days in the cliffs of the Dolomites, attend climbing courses to learn the techniques and all the rope and safety maneuvers.

External Links

Powrock Mountain Guides

Cortina mountain Guides

Val di Fassa Mountain Guides

San Martino di Castrozza Mountain Guides

Madonna di Campiglio Mountain Guides

Val Gardena Mountain Guides


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