Thanks for posting.
I have not used silent partner, but top rope often solo and have used different devices, e.g. Russian Ushba (I believe not available anymore), Petzl shunt, and 2 different ascenders. I actually prefer rope soloing to climbing with a partner in places like Ouray Ice Park - I get a lot more climbing done and do not get cold standing around. Good job Bob.
Liba, great to know you like the rope solo game, too! I have gotten so many rewarding hours out by myself on a rope, and learning those skills expanded my opportunities to climb so much.
If you get into lead soloing, instead of trying to get a Silent Partner, which is difficult and expensive, you might try the Wild Country Revo. It is not as bomber as the SP but does work in similar ways. However, it's not good for solo TR.
Hi Bob long time no see! Great article. I'm looking at a method with a Grigri, a micro traxion and a Petzl ASAP. I want to be able to do multipitch lead as well as top rope. There is a lot to learn, and a lot of time to put in!
Enjoy! This is actually a good reminder that I should update this since the Soloist and Silent Partner are out of production and the SP in particular is stupidly expensive to get now.
I'm not familiar with the ASAP, but if I'm climbing something where I might rest or fall, I usually use a Grigri or Lifeguard with a Microtrax and a cache loop. Managing the loop can be a hassle, but I like that the system locks up right away.
For something easy where a fall is really unlikely, I typically use my Revo because the feed is so smooth and doesn't require any management.
I still prefer two devices on two lines for TRS, but sometimes I just go with one and backup knots. If I have to hang in order to tie a knot, that's fine; I'm not out for style points when rope soloing.
Thanks Bob...well I found a great climbing area with 6 5 pitch routes at moderate grade (5.6 - 5.8 for each pitch). You abseil from the top of each. Really well protected with bolts, too.
In an 8 hour real workmans day I did 11 pitches, using a grigri and traxion. I'm so beat now, lol...made a few silly errors, like tieing off the free end of the rope once to the belay and being shocked that I couldn't pull up the slack end! Oh. Dumb. But mostly, the climbing itself was fun/easy. However by the end I was very tired and had to double check the systems a lot to stay alert.
Will do some more, but overall, having a living, joking partner remains the ideal, and my gratitude for a friend to share the fun may have doubled, haha...hands were *black* by the end of the day from all the fiddling with biners and devices... :)
Liba Kopeckova - Jun 10, 2019 9:25 pm - Voted 10/10
interesting readThanks for posting.
I have not used silent partner, but top rope often solo and have used different devices, e.g. Russian Ushba (I believe not available anymore), Petzl shunt, and 2 different ascenders. I actually prefer rope soloing to climbing with a partner in places like Ouray Ice Park - I get a lot more climbing done and do not get cold standing around. Good job Bob.
Bob Sihler - Jun 12, 2019 6:25 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: interesting readLiba, great to know you like the rope solo game, too! I have gotten so many rewarding hours out by myself on a rope, and learning those skills expanded my opportunities to climb so much.
If you get into lead soloing, instead of trying to get a Silent Partner, which is difficult and expensive, you might try the Wild Country Revo. It is not as bomber as the SP but does work in similar ways. However, it's not good for solo TR.
mvs - Apr 11, 2024 12:23 am - Voted 10/10
Thanks for the articleHi Bob long time no see! Great article. I'm looking at a method with a Grigri, a micro traxion and a Petzl ASAP. I want to be able to do multipitch lead as well as top rope. There is a lot to learn, and a lot of time to put in!
Bob Sihler - Apr 17, 2024 2:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Thanks for the articleEnjoy! This is actually a good reminder that I should update this since the Soloist and Silent Partner are out of production and the SP in particular is stupidly expensive to get now.
I'm not familiar with the ASAP, but if I'm climbing something where I might rest or fall, I usually use a Grigri or Lifeguard with a Microtrax and a cache loop. Managing the loop can be a hassle, but I like that the system locks up right away.
For something easy where a fall is really unlikely, I typically use my Revo because the feed is so smooth and doesn't require any management.
I still prefer two devices on two lines for TRS, but sometimes I just go with one and backup knots. If I have to hang in order to tie a knot, that's fine; I'm not out for style points when rope soloing.
mvs - May 5, 2024 11:43 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Thanks for the articleThanks Bob...well I found a great climbing area with 6 5 pitch routes at moderate grade (5.6 - 5.8 for each pitch). You abseil from the top of each. Really well protected with bolts, too.
In an 8 hour real workmans day I did 11 pitches, using a grigri and traxion. I'm so beat now, lol...made a few silly errors, like tieing off the free end of the rope once to the belay and being shocked that I couldn't pull up the slack end! Oh. Dumb. But mostly, the climbing itself was fun/easy. However by the end I was very tired and had to double check the systems a lot to stay alert.
Will do some more, but overall, having a living, joking partner remains the ideal, and my gratitude for a friend to share the fun may have doubled, haha...hands were *black* by the end of the day from all the fiddling with biners and devices... :)