Nice warmup climb from Pine Creek for the extra elevation gain. Mudslide scar on the switchbacks mean some finagling on steep, loose slopes to get around. Especially annoying on descent.
Big talus fields on approach from Bear Lake. Real fun stuff doesn't start till closer to 12,000. Like north ridge (from desc, haven't done), sticking to ridge offers short sections of fun class 4 and class 3 knife-ridge scrambling with decent exposure. If desired, could keep it mostly class 3 by staying climber's left of the ridge, but appears to me to be a mandatory pitch of class 4 after short traverse to exposed north side of ridge just before the summit. After downclimbing that, tried to stick further lower of ridge to stay in class 3, but incredibly loose and chossy stuff made me regret that. Be wary of the dark-brown/black rock, had holds wiggle on me quite a bit.
Will have to try north ridge another time.
Also could not find the register, which was a bummer as I wanted to see when it was last climbed.
Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ktgnUqTGBQ
I agree that there's a lot of loose rock on this route, especially near the start. Otherwise the climb is very satisfying and enjoyable. I traversed the west ridge to a class 2 chute near Pyramid for descent. I definitely would not recommend downclimbing the ridge.
with Matthew Holliman
Set up camp at Dade Lake with Gordon Ye for climbing the NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire the next day. I had some time left in the day, so I climbed the N Ridge, then traversed to Pyramid Peak and descended the W Ridge to the col with the NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire. A good afternoon out on a lot of knife-edge ridges, though there was a LOT of loose rock too!
Excellent route with Hugh de Q.
I don't recommend this as a descent route, especially for parties of more than 1. It's not so much class 4, as class 3 with huge movable blocks that randomly break free. The exact ridgeline looks to be safest for most of the way. I nearly killed CP at least once, and did one of my patented leaps to grab a knife edge when my footing disappeared down a chute.
Otherwise, a very pretty peak.
Got a late start (0900) due to long drive; car to car in 9 hours with some heart-thumping events along the North Ridge. I stayed pretty far west and encountered more Class 4 with some 5 stuck in there pretty often. Loose rock? More like moveable surfaces! Kinda hairy when alone.
Descended via a few Class 4/5 chutes along the eastern face and circled around "pothole" lake; wasn't in the right frame of mind to downclimb my ascent route. =8O THEN the rain came.
BTW, the register coffee jar is on the 12,744' peak. I forgot to sign my name after putting a comment in it. :/
I started off in the dark and summited just before sunrise on a beautiful summer morning. Watching sunrise on the surrounding peaks was breathtaking. The North Ridge is a very fine, unsung route in the Little Lakes area. Trip Report