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19948 Hits
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71.06% Score
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1 Votes
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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52.69000°N / 3.9°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Rock Climb/Scramble |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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V Diff (5.2-5.3) |
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Approach
Head up the Pony Path From Ty-Nant,after the Third Gate turn left toward the North Wall of Cyfrwy,heading in an Easterly direction toward Llyn-y-Gadair and the Foxes Path.
When you get nearer to the Llyn,the Arete of Cyfrwy becomes very visible on the Skyline with the shape of The Table very prominent around a Third of the way up the Arete,ascend the Scree and Boulder field and keep to the left of the Arete,zig zag up the gully keeping an eye on the arete to the right and the letters CA will be written on a rock at the bottom of the 1st pitch.
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Route Description
Rope up next to the letters CA,1st pich ascends the Arete for around 25m,where youll see a large spike to your left,belay.Alternatley,at the bottom there is a groove around the corner which is easier to ascend to the 1st belay.Second pitch is a scramble up onto The Table,called this because its an area of around 5m squared and flat,be careful climbing onto Table as some slabs are very loose,Belay.Now you have to drop 1-2m into a gully,it's somtimes easier to lower some of your party into it?Now for the 3rd and best pitch,drop down gully a couple of meters and climb up to the right for another 3m to a large spike,from here ascend the wall to the right,its nearly vertical but lots of protection and very solid holds,its around 20m in height,Belay.From the on just follw the arete for two more easy pitches,the the rest of the route can be done by short rope moving together up the arete.
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Essential Gear
Use Twin Ropes,a moderate rack of nuts,hexes,plenty of slings and screwgates,and a couple of cams 1and half to 3.The route can be done in Mountain Boots or Rock Shoes.
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Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
adbs1 - Oct 7, 2008 3:01 am - Hasn't voted
Finding the startThe approach is 240 degrees from the southern tip of Llyn Cau lake. If looking for the CA mentioned in the description, it is a scrambling of some distance above the scree level.
Phillip Stasiw - Oct 9, 2008 3:34 pm - Hasn't voted
CA StartWhen you look up at the arete, there is a gully to the left, quite a worn path, steep and stepped. You come out of the steepest part, then glance across to the right at the arete and the letters CA are on a boulder, and thats the start! Hope this helps.