East Ridge

Approach

From either the Albigna or Forno Huts.

From Forno hut, cross the glacier and ascend the scree and snow slope towards Casnil Pass. There is a rock barrier on your right with a marker cairn just before the last snow slope. From Albigna hut, follow the main trail to twin ponds, continue east up rocky slopes to a ridge. Slant left and ascend scree/snow to the pass. Cross the pass and descend to the marker cairn.

Route Description

From the marker cairn, traverse right on grass and scree ledges to just below the East ridge.Climb the ridge flank via a short couloir to reach the ridge crest at a gap just below a large gendarme. Climb the ridge on its north side along scree and rocks and rejoin the crest at the base of a continuously steep section after going around a series of pinnacles. Climb the slabs and cracks on the right side of the crest 40m to a belay stance (UIAA III, YDS 5.3). Continue climbing directly to a yellow rock step. Start from the left side and work right back to the crest (UIAA IV- YDS 5.6). A crack above (UIAA III/IV) leads back to the crest. Follow the ridge more or less directly, turning to the right, if desired. The final corner to the top is rated UIAA IV/IV+, YDS 5.6/5.7. 5 hours from Forno hut, 6 from Albigna.

Essential Gear

Rope, standard rack and quickdraws.