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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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36.03417°N / 115.46333°W |
Route Type:
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Rock (Trad) |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.10a |
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Approach
Follow the approach description and photo as outlined in the 'Frogland' approach section. From 'Frogland' continue West past several prominent crack systems, most notably the wide upper section of 'Ixtlan.' Continue past the overbolted 1st pitch of 'Sand Felipe' and proceed another 150+/- yards to the base of 'Wholesome Fullback.' Allow 35-40 minutes for the approach.
The descent is via rappels from the top of 'Our Father.'
Route Description
P1 - A couple of face moves (5.8) bring you to a thin finger crack (10a) that is very reminiscent of 'Straight Shooter,' but seems easier. Follow the crack for about 20' until you hit a lower angle section with a glorious handcrack (5.9-,1.5+") looming above. Climb the handcrack through a small overhanging section and continue up another 15' to a small roof on the right. Traverse right under this roof for about 8' (~5.9) to the base of a small corner/crack. Surmount the lip (10a) going into this new crack and continue up on amazing hands (5.8, 2-3"). A belay can be established at several spots somewhere around 150 - 180' up. It's a long pitch and easily one of the best for the grade at Red Rocks!
P2 - Chimney and/or face climb up the remaining ever widening crack (~5.7) to a lower angle 4th class section. Move through the huge gaping slot on the right (this may be a very tight fit at the end) to a ledge and rap anchors on top of 'Our Father.'
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Essential Gear
Standard rack up to 3" with triples in small to large hand range helpful. A couple of larger cams (#4 Camalot, #5 Friend) optional. 2x60m ropes (although it may be possible to rappel 3 times with a single 60m rope, CAUTION!)