did a couple o' routes at Roy. Columns this past weekend. Here's beta if you want to add them (not sure if they fall under "classics" category though):
(1) X-Factor (5.8 I think??, ~70 feet). Located on the west side of Royal Columns almost exactly where the approach trail first reaches the base of the (climbable) rock (not the choss you traverse under earlier in the approach). Look for a smooth rectangular (2'X 2') slab 10 feet off the ground. Description: The pitch climbs a weird feature: 2 cracks which "v" together (no crack) and then open up again on the upper half of pitch (hence the "x"). Crux is midway up the pitch where the crack temporarily vanishes and you do a few face/crimp moves. Down: No bolted anchors directly on top but plenty of those 20 feet to the right. Belay from gear on top. Gear: Set of cams from about 1" to a #5 Friend/#4 Camalot. Light set of nuts.
(2) First Blood (5.8, ~60 feet). This is the crack immediately right of Mush Maker. Look for a wide (~4 inch) crack starting 15 feet above ground (above some 3rd class ledges). Description: Jam this fist to OW crack – incuts inside the crack and some face features keep things at 5.8. Crux is the exit out of the crack onto the sloping ledge. Down: Bolt anchor on top (same as for Mush Maker). Gear: single #1-#3.5 Camalots (can place smaller stuff near top and in constrictions); #5 Friend; double #4 Camalots. No nuts.
(3) Cactus Love (5.9, 70 feet). This route is located immediately right of a large column on the right side of Orange Sunsine. When you reach the base of the Royal Columns on the approach trail, hike right ~30 feet. Look for a weird stem-box formed by a column edge/squeeze chimney on left and a thin edge/crack on right. There’s a 2’X 2’ chockstone 8 feet up. Description: Climb this weird stembox via a combination of finger locks (on right) and stemming. When the crack on right peters out, switch to wide (~3-4 inch) crack on left. Small stance beneath a minor roof allows you to catch your breath before the crux. Pull the roof (more of a bulge) using the fingers/off-fingers crack on right and the wide crack on left. Belay 12 feet higher on bolts. Down: Bolted anchors at the top and on the left. Gear: Double green and yellow Aliens. Double Camalots from #0.5 to #3. Single Camalots #3.5 and #4. Light set of nuts.
Cool. Thanks for the beta. I didn't think X Factor was worthy of this list. It's up to you on the other 2 if you want them included. I haven't climbed either. How did you like them? Would you recommend them to others?
Martin,
After I posted this stuff, I noticed that you've done most of these routes before & chose not to add them. I'm fine either way: add/don't add (Cactus... is a 2/4-star route which is about right; First Blood is 3/4 star which I agree with = pretty good). I'm curious though why did you choose to limit the beta to the 3- or 4-star routes? Since it's a comprehensive wall page (so that you're not adding single pitch route pages = good idea here IMHO) though, why limit it to the classics? Might as well add descriptions on that page for whatever routes you've done (and you've done a lot of stuff there) - might be useful to others? Anyway, don't take this as bitching please :) --- just my stupid $.05. Take care.
radek
rpc - Apr 17, 2006 3:48 pm - Voted 10/10
Mo' routes.Martin,
did a couple o' routes at Roy. Columns this past weekend. Here's beta if you want to add them (not sure if they fall under "classics" category though):
(1) X-Factor (5.8 I think??, ~70 feet). Located on the west side of Royal Columns almost exactly where the approach trail first reaches the base of the (climbable) rock (not the choss you traverse under earlier in the approach). Look for a smooth rectangular (2'X 2') slab 10 feet off the ground.
Description: The pitch climbs a weird feature: 2 cracks which "v" together (no crack) and then open up again on the upper half of pitch (hence the "x"). Crux is midway up the pitch where the crack temporarily vanishes and you do a few face/crimp moves.
Down: No bolted anchors directly on top but plenty of those 20 feet to the right. Belay from gear on top.
Gear: Set of cams from about 1" to a #5 Friend/#4 Camalot. Light set of nuts.
(2) First Blood (5.8, ~60 feet). This is the crack immediately right of Mush Maker. Look for a wide (~4 inch) crack starting 15 feet above ground (above some 3rd class ledges).
Description: Jam this fist to OW crack – incuts inside the crack and some face features keep things at 5.8. Crux is the exit out of the crack onto the sloping ledge.
Down: Bolt anchor on top (same as for Mush Maker).
Gear: single #1-#3.5 Camalots (can place smaller stuff near top and in constrictions); #5 Friend; double #4 Camalots. No nuts.
(3) Cactus Love (5.9, 70 feet). This route is located immediately right of a large column on the right side of Orange Sunsine. When you reach the base of the Royal Columns on the approach trail, hike right ~30 feet. Look for a weird stem-box formed by a column edge/squeeze chimney on left and a thin edge/crack on right. There’s a 2’X 2’ chockstone 8 feet up.
Description: Climb this weird stembox via a combination of finger locks (on right) and stemming. When the crack on right peters out, switch to wide (~3-4 inch) crack on left. Small stance beneath a minor roof allows you to catch your breath before the crux. Pull the roof (more of a bulge) using the fingers/off-fingers crack on right and the wide crack on left. Belay 12 feet higher on bolts.
Down: Bolted anchors at the top and on the left.
Gear: Double green and yellow Aliens. Double Camalots from #0.5 to #3. Single Camalots #3.5 and #4. Light set of nuts.
Martin Cash - Apr 18, 2006 1:54 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Mo' routes.Cool. Thanks for the beta. I didn't think X Factor was worthy of this list. It's up to you on the other 2 if you want them included. I haven't climbed either. How did you like them? Would you recommend them to others?
rpc - Apr 18, 2006 3:47 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Mo' routes.Martin,
After I posted this stuff, I noticed that you've done most of these routes before & chose not to add them. I'm fine either way: add/don't add (Cactus... is a 2/4-star route which is about right; First Blood is 3/4 star which I agree with = pretty good). I'm curious though why did you choose to limit the beta to the 3- or 4-star routes? Since it's a comprehensive wall page (so that you're not adding single pitch route pages = good idea here IMHO) though, why limit it to the classics? Might as well add descriptions on that page for whatever routes you've done (and you've done a lot of stuff there) - might be useful to others? Anyway, don't take this as bitching please :) --- just my stupid $.05. Take care.
radek
rpc - Apr 28, 2006 2:03 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Mo' routes.Martin,
thanks for putting the time into this! Very complete & great page.
Many thanks also for including so many of my shots on the page too! Appreciate the honors!
Sharon - May 21, 2007 3:24 am - Hasn't voted
Rattlers...watch out for 'em! May want to add that.