Maverick

Overview

Note that despite what the books say, this route easily goes HAMMERLESS! Leave the pins and junk at home and bring some Aliens/TCU's instead.

Maverick climbs to the summit of The Hindu Tower in 4 short pitches (these are easily combined into 3 or even 2). Of the two published routes on this tower, Maverick most likely sees the bulk of the traffic (perhaps because it's included in Burns' "Desert Selects" guidebook?). Though the route goes free, you'd need to be pretty comfy with 5.13- on marginal gear to do this lead (thin gear in good Moab sandstone but still.....it's Moab sandstone). Vast majority of visitors will aid their way to the summit (as we did of course). As an aid climb, the route is great fun! Probably not overly dangerous but without feeling trivial. All anchors feel sufficiently safe.

Getting There

The route starts on the south face of The Hindu and then traverses onto the west face on upper pitches. Follow approach directions on the main Hindu page under Getting There. Approach time is 20-30 minutes.

Route Description

Pitch 1: 5.9 R C1 or C2 or 5.13a, 80 feet. Start up via a series of balancy face moves and mantles on runout terrain with marginal rock (~5.9 R - some guidebooks call it 5.8 R, but it's stiffer than the so called crux 5.9- on P3). Alternatively, you can aid this section on C2 placements. However you cover this ground, you'll end up at the base of the thin finger crack starting 20 feet above the sidewalk. Aid the crack at about C1. There's a fixed piton and some tat hanging on it as the crack ends. Above, pull (gently!!) on some semi-loose flakes and traverse left 8 feet to the anchors. Semi-hanging belay below a prominent roof.

Pitch 2: 5.6 C1 or 5.11+, 50 feet. From belay, traverse left (balancy aid) 6 feet and start up a flaring crack (pin scars) aiming for the fixed piton/tat hanging 20 feet above. Lower off the fixed stuff and tension traverse left (~15 feet) to reach easier (5.6) terrain. Move up 20 feet to a fixed anchor on a good stance.

Pitch 3: 5.8, 50 feet. Move up the low 5th class terrain aiming for a bulge above. Pull the bulge on good rock and with good gear - some guidebooks call it 5.9-, but's that overrating it. Pull another easier bulge above to reach a belay stance with some fixed pins/bolt.

Pitch 4: 5.7 C2, 50 feet. Move up the overhanging dihedral (C2) just right of belay bolts. The pin scars here will take Aliens very well. Terrain eases 25 feet above belay. Follow easier terrain to the summit (fixed gear anchor on the summit and bolted rap anchor near south edge of summit).

Descent: One double 60 meter rope rap back down to the sidewalk (you're rapping back down the south face).

Essential Gear

No hammer, no pins!! Route goes clean. Don't damage the rock!
Aid Rack:
1X black, blue Aliens.
2X green, yellow Aliens.
3-4X red Alien and/or #0.5 Camalot.
3X #0.75 Camalot
2X #1 - #3 Camalot
1 set offset nuts
2 sets of nuts (extra small and mediums)
Slings
Double 60 meter ropes (not sure if double 50m will get you down in 1 shot....could always try to rap the route).
Optional (but very, very nice!) red/yellow and yellow/green hybrid Aliens.
Aid gear of your choice.

Route Overview

Images

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