Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.52800°N / 12.67000°E |
Route Type:
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Via Ferrata |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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difficult via ferrata |
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Overview
South faceIf there’s a via ferrata in the Eastern Alps that really deserves to be climbed, without doubt is this one. It is a very long route that requires alpinistic skill and a perfect physical and mental condition. And is of course, due to the extremely exposed passages on the edge of impressive abysses, off limits for dizzy people.
But who are this “cinquanta”( fifty )? They are a group of climbers and mountain lovers of Sappada that want to valorize the Clap group with different activities. In the 90’s they thought to build a new route, a difficult via ferrata on the sharp crests of Cima di Riobianco and Creton di Culzei. It has been tracked in a very intelligent way, on a completely virgin part of the group, where there weren’t climbing routes or warpaths. It will really satisfy every kind of alpinist, that can enjoy the beauty of the dolomitic mountains in an intact, wild environment and can have fun climbing spectacular aerial passages. All the secured parts are in good condition and often checked. On the northern slopes of the mountain sometimes you can find snow and ice even in summer ( I found snow in august ) so bringing an ice axe it’s not a bad idea. Time required 9/10 hours.
Approach
From Pian di Casa ( Bar-Ristorante Centro Fondo ) take the steep path n°201 that goes up through the woods until the ruins of Casera di Clap Piccolo. From there you have to go down to the bottom of a ravine ( Vallone di Pradibosco ) where you’ll find some easy secured passages. Then again up to the Clap Grand, where just below the vertical faces of Creton di Culzei there’s the beautiful Rifugio de Gasperi ( 1737 m, 1 hour and 30 minutes ). Follow the indications for the partly secured path n°316 “R.Corbellini” that goes to Passo Siera. After several ups and downs on the impressive ravines that go down from the south walls of Creton di Culzei an Cima di Riobianco you have to be careful to leave the path and follow an almost hidden track that goes up on the left ( there should be an indication on a rock ). After a few minutes you’ll find the first iron ropes where the ferrata begins ( 1730 m, south face of Cima di Cuestamus, 30 minutes ).Route Description
on the north slopesThe first part is basically a warm-up in the long gully that goes up to Forca Alta di Culzei. There are some fun passages ( up to the UIAA III degree if not secured ) but never too exposed. The first nice views are in the end of the gully, to the two towers of Lama di Riobianco and to the valley below. Then, once reached the notch ( from here you can go down to Passo Siera in case of emergency ), the view opens wide to the Siera-Creta Forata group and to the Carnic Alps main ridge ( 2190 m, 2 hours ).
On the summit of Cima di Riobianco
Lastron di CulzeiFollow the path on the left until you’ll see the vertical yellow east edge of Cima di Riobianco, where the fun begins. There are several extremely exposed passages on vertical walls and ledges, with an average difficulty around the UIAA III, with one very aerial passage of the UIAA IV on the edge called “la sciabola”( the sabre ), just below the summit of Cima di Riobianco ( 2400 m, 1 hour ). Then the ferrata becomes a normal path that goes first down and then again up on the north scree slopes and ravines until the base of the east face of Lastron di Culzei, where you have to climb about 50 m of the UIAA III. After that you’re on the huge scree slope of the mountain, and the difficult part can be considered over.
approaching the summitIn a few minutes, following the path on the crest, you’ll be first on the summit of Lastron di Culzei ( 2458 m ) and then after another easy climb ( 10 meters of about UIAA II ) on the top of Creton di Culzei ( 2472 m, 1 hour and 30 minutes ).
The descent follows the normal route, which have been almost completely secured to Forca dell’Alpino.
Val Pesarina
Carnic main ridgeFollow the red dots until you reach a chimney ( UIAA II ) that brings you to a small notch. After another tricky passage the route goes down without much difficulties through the gully that goes down to Forca dell’Alpino ( 2302 m, 45 minutes ). From the notch you have to go down on the ravine that separates Creton di Clap Grande from Creton di Culzei, where you’ll find some tricky secured parts and caution is needed ( great danger of falling rocks ).
going down from Forca dell'AlpinoThen an easy path called “Sentiero Malavoglia” will bring you to the Rifugio de Gasperi, where you can relax for a while enjoying the wonderful view ( 1 hour ). Following the same path of the ascent ( n°201 ) in one hour or so you will be in the parking lot of the Bar Centro Fondo.
Note: The UIAA rating system can be used only for climbing routes and not for vie ferrate. Here is used just to give a hint of how would be the most difficult passages without iron ropes.