Red Arete

Overview

The "Red Arete" is the obvious arete to the right of the smooth face that makes up the main area. The climb is 40 meters tall and is set up to be done in two pitches.

Getting There

Approaching the crag from the parking area scramble up the scree slope towards the right side of the clean face.

Route Description

The first pitch is 15 meters up to a small cave. I give this pitch a 5.8 rating. The last bolt is a little run-out. There are two bolts to the left of the cave for a belay.
Pitch two is 25 meters tall and is similar to the first pitch until the crux which is the last 5 meters. Climb to the right of the arete for better holds. As you climb it is duifcult to see most of the bolts. Take your time and look around. Some bolts are on the arete itself, some are to the right, and some on the left. This causes a considerable amount of rope drag! The use of 3 or 4 long runners will help. Caution, Lots of rock fall!
Just below the top and to the left of the arete are twin bolts for an anchor. The twin bolt anchor is in a difficult place to belay from, you may elect to climb above the bolts (clipping one) and top out (about another 1.5 meters). Once you have topped out there are two more bolts that can be used for an anchor. To belay form this point will cause significant rope drag as the rope passes over the edge. Use caution if your second climber loads the rope. Neither of the anchors at the top are ideal for belaying. You can walk off to the left when done.

Essential Gear

10-12 quickdraws, 3-4 runners for leading (in addition to any anchor material). A helmet!

Images

View Red Arete Image Gallery - 5 Images