Definitely one of the better 5.10 routes at Jtree. The initial crack up and long traverse are approx 5.8. I placed two pieces with a 120cm extension each, one at top of the first crack and one on the traverse and had little rope drag on the finger crack portion. Key for me through the crux was re-balancing; re-centering my weight below my finger and ring locks. If you try to keep your feet on the lip of the crack or layback, gravity will be your enemy. That hand jam 3/4ers of the way is a life saver and allows a solid rest. Beautiful piece to go along with Bird on Fire.
This is so good I repeat it at least one time every year.
The trick I use is to put the pieces in the little crack, after I used them for jams. This will mess up the second cause all the good jams will be filled with gear.... sucks to go second.
The occasion was the briliant on-sight lead by Pat Orris, the tiny woman who put us men(repeatedly) to shame by her courage and skills. A whole bunch of us watched Pat cruise this wonderful crack in 1986. I remember coming back a few times before I could say I climbed it. Great memories of an excellent woman climber and a route to match her skills.
Uh yeah. Great route. Rushed the move to the jug on the upper half and peeled. No worries. Freed the rest. Felt really good on it. Interesting belay. Used a 70m rope. Tied into both sides of the rope. Belayed off the right rope for the first half, then switched to on belay on the left rope for the second half. Fun to clean.
Climbed way long ago. This route intimidated for years. When I got on it, though, it was pretty reasonable. Quality crack climbing.
I followed this route. The lower part feels more strenuous since it was wide. I hung to clean. Hopefully I'll make it clean next time.