Saddle Rocks Climber's Log

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Feb 3, 2023 1:46 pm Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2023

The Kid, 5.10aR*  Sucess!

Much is made to do about the danger and/or runout of this route. I don’t see it. It felt very typical for a bolted slab/face climb in Jtree. The only climbing at the grade is through the first two well placed bolts at the start. The remaining climbing is well below grade. Not sure how someone breaks a leg on this route, without trying hard, but they have I guess, on several occasions. Start in an alcove below a separate feature from the main wall located just right of the uber popular Walk on the Wild Side. Climb the right arete via slab through two bolts, the 2nd of which is more modern. Continue up easier ground to an upper face, make a clip and traverse over and right onto a blunt arete. Finish through the final bolt to a fixed rap. Five draws. Route gets afternoon sun.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Mar 25, 2019 1:44 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2019

Dial 911- 300’-5.10a**  Sucess!

Fully bolted. Just to the left of the popular Walk on the Wild Side. It starts off a chockstone in the deep corridor/chimney at the base of the wall. Sustained at the grade for the first main pitch, thus the ** in Miramontes guide no doubt. The crux move is at about 3/4ers of the way up the long first pitch. You get an undercling, but the feet are precious as you move over a bulge. Fixed rap at 150’. The 2nd/3rd pitches are easily combined. Another 30’ of steep slab lands you at a short hand crack, up and trend left from there passing another fixed rap and at 190’ you will find a rap on top of a narrow ledge. A single 60’ rope gets you straight down (trending climbers left) in 4 fixed raps. Dow

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Mar 28, 2018 4:04 pm Date Climbed: Mar 20, 2018

Right On- 3 Pitches- 5.5***  Sucess!

I thought I soloed this route years ago, but figured out later that I had got onto Orange Flake’s (5.8*) wide pitch instead of staying in the wide corner proper. This is an easy route to solo or simul but stout for the grade, probably leans more Jtree 5.6 in comparison to other routes. From a solo perspective, the only feel of exposure is on the first pitch and it is mostly 5th class slab. The 2nd pitch feels wide and secure up the slanting right to left wide, almost chimney, corner. The third pitch is secure up another corner heading up and left, easy climbing at the grade with some 4th or 5th class exposure slab to the fixed rap atop the formation. Two single rope raps down the back, worth hauling your approach shoes for the walk around. 60m rope can make it, just rap towards skiers right.

atthecrux

atthecrux - Apr 23, 2013 1:53 am Date Climbed: Feb 8, 2010

Walk on the Wild Side  Sucess!

Climbed this for the first time a few years back and then again a few months ago. A fun route with an awesome view. I'd recommend the rappel descent.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Mar 3, 2011 11:23 am Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011

Walk on the Wild Side  Sucess!

At the end of a 10 route day with fingers a hurtin' we took a breather on this fun slab line. Bolts all over, but pretty much stay in the 2nd line to the left of the cleft. Go left at the roof then back right and up. Two pitches or simul climb. Trend left on the 2nd pitch and follow a few bolts. A 60 makes 3 raps straight down and to the right at the bottom.

darinchadwick

darinchadwick - Jan 25, 2011 3:19 pm

Twice?  Sucess!

Did Walk on the Wild Side twice. I try to never repeat climbs at Josh so I can do as many routes as possible, but I'll probably do this a third time.

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