9 hours RT, Martin Cash must have been hauling ass since we did not even pitch out the scramble. Glacier showed no signs of crevasses, but they were there, sinking in slowly. No one else really up there, saw 2 other parties and one other party via the Quien Sabe
Dan and I arrived at Cascade Pass at 7:00 with the intention of doing the Torment - Forbidden Traverse in 2 days. Unfortunely the weather sucked and we were completely clouded in at the trailhead. We decided that would not be a good route in iffy weather and did Sahale as a dayclimb instead. Hiked up the Sahale Arm, then scrambled the Complete Southwest Ridge to the summit. Pretty fun for an easy route. Nice views from the top as the clouds cooperated for about 2 hours at high elevation. 5,700' elevation gain done in 7.75 hours car to car.
This was the first summit during a 7-day stint in the North Cascades with Mountain Madness (part of their 13-day alpine climbing course). The weather was great and the climb was too.
Climbed the Quien Sabe and descended Sahale Arm. An enjoyable climb with excellent views. Doable in a long day from the car.
new snow turned us around at summit rock
Ramoo, Spliff, and Melon. Good times!
Started Monday morning at the end of the river road. Hiked to Cascade Pass and then up to the Glacier camp. Started a little late around 5 o'clock. We were about halfway up the pinnacle before we turned back because of the darkness. Great view from the camp and high up on the Pinnacle.
Very good weather. Nick and I did a one dayer . Took the west ridge to the summit from the hightest snow patch above gacier instead dusty, loose trail into the gully system to the top. Rope and couple pro for safety. Nice alternative.
Great setting with incredible views of the northern Cascades therefore deserves an overnight stay but the permit hassle is not worth it. An easy glacier traverse brought us to the base of the pinnacle, chose to climb the south face in one pitch among many other options. It had few 5th class moves on somewhat loose rock. Summit views were great in all directions on this clear day.
Excellent route for a one day trip, however the never ending switchbacks to Cascade Pass from the end of the road trailhead is relentless and a little overdone. 3.7 miles to gain 1200 feet in that portion of the Cascades is a bit of an overkill, even if the intent is to bring Cascade Pass to the general public. Climbed the glacier with a little rope practice and attempted the summit with no rope from the southeast. Got to within one big exposed move from the summit after scurrying up a chute and decided to back off. If there is a relatively safe ropeless route to the summit in dry airy conditions, this is not it. Perhaps another day. The real treasure here are the views, easy glacier and the Sahale Arm traverse.
Two day climb. Camped on the Quien Sabe. 7 AM start and made the summit of Sahale Peak and then climbed down and had lunch and then climbed Sharkfin Tower.
Started out from car at 7 am, summit around 1:30 pm, left summit around 2:30 pm, back at car at 6 pm. Climb was very short, but there were plenty of other folks up there. Trail is snow free up to high camp and the glacier. Lots of furry marmots en route. Glacier very tame, snow in good shape, rock pitch very short. Climbed with a newbie so we roped up at glacier, and simul-climbed the rock with a couple belays. Exited the glacier to the right and kept working our way right around the summit pyramid, mostly 3rd class scramble with some exposed 4th toward the finish on the NE side. Rope not necessary for able scramblers, but was very nice for the rappel and good practice with rope mgmt. Awesome day, amazing views!
2 days, beautiful area
Did this climb in one day. This is a beautiful and interesting climb. Took mountain bikes up the road and had a nice coast back down to trailhead.
Climbed up and down the rappel route (middle of the S. face). While packing up at camp we watched a guy without 'pons or axe try to injure himself due to rockfall and lack of traction.
Fantastically beautiful approach up a well-maintained trail across Cascade Pass. Camped at 7,400 feet with an alpine start early the next morning. Small glacier, but we roped up anyway due to the late season conditions. Great cramponing with hard packed snow, few crevasses. Climbed the summit pyramid (class 4 rock), and feasted on some unbelievable sunrise views of Baker, Glacier, Rainier, Eldorado, ...
This is a highly recommended climb, and I hope to return for more climbing in the area.
Thanks to Sara, Peter, Ken, and Bob for an amazing weekend of climbing!!
Climb Party: John, Dave. G, Aish
Late start from Portland @ 8:00 PM on Friday (08/20). Reached Johanesberg TH at 2:30 AM. Planned for an early start up the trail, but sleep overcame us and we left the TH at 6:00 AM. Beautiful hike up cascade pass, doubtful lake and up the Sahale arm. After a short scramble up the high rocks, reached the snout of the Sahale glacier at 11:00 AM. Started to go up the glacier, but had to stop to put on crampons (slab ice and slush). The weather moved in quickly and forced us to stay put until 12:00. After an hour's stay at ~7600 ft and the clouds having moved east, we decided to go up the Sahale glacier. Once at the top of the glacier, about 200ft away from the summit pyramind, noticed a rapid movement of a bad weather front (thick clouds moving northbound and thunder) - immediate descent down the glacier and a wet return to the TH @ 5:30 PM. So close to the summit, yet so far! Planning to re-attempt 09/18.
1st time with E Sandbo & L Rasmussen, climbed in combination with Boston. 2nd trip with M Woodmansee, B Brown, J Kristofski, L Franzen and other SAC members. Hiked in to Boston Basin Saturday morning, continued to W end of upper basin below Torment dropped gear and climbed Torment. Back down and spent night below glacier on gravel benches. Sunday traversed Boston Basin and accessed Sahale arm through break in ridge line S of Sahale. Dropped gear near Sahale Glacier and hiked up to summit. Back down to Cascade Pass trail and then back to cars. Fun trip, great weather, good friends.
One day, car to car. Good weather, fires to the south.
Came back from a butt whoppin' climb on Sahale. Cascade River road is washed out in three places between mile post 21 and 22. So, the road is gated closed at mile post 20. This added extra 3 miles one way to our climb. So our supposed 14 mile round trip (5100 vertical gain) turned out to be 20 miles round trip (6400 vertical gain)!!!!!! All in one day. Left at 4:15 am and returned to the car at 7:30 pm.
Overall, it was worth it. The views from atop Sahale is one of the best. Beautiful clear day and we could see for miles and miles. Could make out Boston, Forbidden, Sahale, Mix-up, The Triplets, Magic Mtn, Cascade Peak, Johannesburg, Baker, Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Mt. Goode, etc.... there's so many!
I'll post a trip report soon with pics.