Was on this mountain the previous year and got caught in a little avalanche that buried me to my chest. This time, it was a perfect day and a super climb. A beautiful summit!
We started from Rifugio Berni near the Gavia pass, ascended over the Dosegu glacier and reached the summit over the NW ridge. After that, we followed the east ridge for quite a while before turning north towards the Branca Hütte when we had almost reached the Bivacco F. Meneghello. Turning north earlier would be shorter, but as there wasn't all that much snow on the glacier, we wanted to avoid the big bergshrund and the crevassed area on the northern and northeastern slopes of Punta San Matteo. As a result, it became a very long day.
Classic ski route, complitely alone
Almost made the summit. Accidently cut my finger with a knife trying to remove fabric from my fly zipper...big mistake...cost the summit although visibility was deteriorating quickly anyway. I left quite a mark in the snow.
From Rifugio Branca after a stormy night.
At 5 the fog was still rising, but then a bit of new snow covered the ground. With the skies on our back till the glacer, then a long way under the north slope. We reached with the ski the terminal crivass, then we climbed the direct to the top.
The weather improved during the ascent, and it was sunny and very nice on the top.
Valerio, Matteo and Giacomo
Summited in a clear and pleasant day. Some navigation problem in the lower part of the glacier dei Forni as the melting made difficult crossing the rivers. The cross on the summit was down on the rocks as the winter snow damaged the base. Think that one week later, during a celebration in memory of Capt. Berni, it has been repaired and now stands again on the top of the mountain.
Route Climbed: Normal from Refuge Branca.
Wonderful day, perfect snow: the route from refuge Branca was almost crowded!
Easy rock crest from battaglione Ortles (reached from Passo Gavia) to San Matteo across Punta Vallumbrina, Cima Villacorna e Monte Mantello.
A beautiful montain and good climbing. An open large crevass almost at the top made it more challenging. Some light snow while approaching the peak.
From bivacco Battaglione Ortles (got there from Pejo), across P. Vallumbrina, C. Villacorna, Mte Mantello. Then I turned towards the north snow ridge and got to the top along this. Back through passo degli Orsi. Fine weather all along.
I climbed this summit during the 13 summits tour. Reached the top at 18:30, beautiful weather, stopped at the Meneghello bivy for the night.
August 3rd 1995
with our group of the alpine club during an instruction course. Great weather, good conditions - but no pictures because my film was treated false at the photo shop.
April 22nd 2003
nice trip, some danger of crevasses and ice fall and one passage to carry the ski. We were not patient enough and left the summit after half an hour in the fog with no sight. 10 min later there would have been clear sky... So I will have to return some time.
With my friends Massimo and Franco early in the morning (about 4 a.m) in a record time have reached the peak. Unfortunately, on the peak there were many clouds so we haven't see a lot. But for all the trip we have climbed with good weather. About Franco, some problem about his crampons. When we were coming back, we have found two old war weapons!