San Matteo Climber's Log

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icypeak - Aug 4, 2013 4:12 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013

From Refuge Berni  Sucess!

Was on this mountain the previous year and got caught in a little avalanche that buried me to my chest. This time, it was a perfect day and a super climb. A beautiful summit!


rgg - Sep 14, 2012 6:21 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2012

A nice traverse  Sucess!

We started from Rifugio Berni near the Gavia pass, ascended over the Dosegu glacier and reached the summit over the NW ridge. After that, we followed the east ridge for quite a while before turning north towards the Branca Hütte when we had almost reached the Bivacco F. Meneghello. Turning north earlier would be shorter, but as there wasn't all that much snow on the glacier, we wanted to avoid the big bergshrund and the crevassed area on the northern and northeastern slopes of Punta San Matteo. As a result, it became a very long day. - Mar 27, 2012 2:17 pm

ski tour  Sucess!

Classic ski route, complitely alone


patascent - Mar 30, 2010 3:17 pm Date Climbed: Mar 22, 2010

Ski Route from Branca Hut

Almost made the summit. Accidently cut my finger with a knife trying to remove fabric from my fly zipper...big mistake...cost the summit although visibility was deteriorating quickly anyway. I left quite a mark in the snow.


mulidivarese - Jun 22, 2009 1:05 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009

North side  Sucess!

From Rifugio Branca after a stormy night.
At 5 the fog was still rising, but then a bit of new snow covered the ground. With the skies on our back till the glacer, then a long way under the north slope. We reached with the ski the terminal crivass, then we climbed the direct to the top.
The weather improved during the ascent, and it was sunny and very nice on the top.
Valerio, Matteo and Giacomo


steste - Aug 31, 2008 4:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2008

Normal route from Refuge Branca  Sucess!

Summited in a clear and pleasant day. Some navigation problem in the lower part of the glacier dei Forni as the melting made difficult crossing the rivers. The cross on the summit was down on the rocks as the winter snow damaged the base. Think that one week later, during a celebration in memory of Capt. Berni, it has been repaired and now stands again on the top of the mountain.


archiloco - Nov 6, 2007 4:39 am Date Climbed: Jun 20, 1990

Route Climbed: Normal from Ref. Branca  Sucess!

Route Climbed: Normal from Refuge Branca.


landroval - Apr 4, 2006 2:49 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2006

great freeride!  Sucess!

Wonderful day, perfect snow: the route from refuge Branca was almost crowded!

simo - Dec 26, 2005 6:07 am

Route Climbed: Vallumbrina Date Climbed: august 2004  Sucess!

Easy rock crest from battaglione Ortles (reached from Passo Gavia) to San Matteo across Punta Vallumbrina, Cima Villacorna e Monte Mantello.


albertofanga - Nov 6, 2005 8:50 am

Route Climbed: from Berni hut Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!

A beautiful montain and good climbing. An open large crevass almost at the top made it more challenging. Some light snow while approaching the peak.

Claude Mauguier - May 13, 2005 5:37 pm

Route Climbed: SW ridge Date Climbed: oct 1988  Sucess!

From bivacco Battaglione Ortles (got there from Pejo), across P. Vallumbrina, C. Villacorna, Mte Mantello. Then I turned towards the north snow ridge and got to the top along this. Back through passo degli Orsi. Fine weather all along.


Lorenz - Oct 1, 2003 2:48 am

Route Climbed: Traverse from Tresero to S.Matteo Date Climbed: June 2003  Sucess!

I climbed this summit during the 13 summits tour. Reached the top at 18:30, beautiful weather, stopped at the Meneghello bivy for the night.

Mathias Zehring

Mathias Zehring - May 17, 2003 12:28 am

Route Climbed: normal (ski) route from Branca hut Date Climbed: 1995 - 2003  Sucess!

August 3rd 1995

with our group of the alpine club during an instruction course. Great weather, good conditions - but no pictures because my film was treated false at the photo shop.

April 22nd 2003

nice trip, some danger of crevasses and ice fall and one passage to carry the ski. We were not patient enough and left the summit after half an hour in the fog with no sight. 10 min later there would have been clear sky... So I will have to return some time.


marco979 - May 4, 2001 4:15 am

Route Climbed: NORMAL ROUTE Date Climbed: August, 2000  Sucess!

With my friends Massimo and Franco early in the morning (about 4 a.m) in a record time have reached the peak. Unfortunately, on the peak there were many clouds so we haven't see a lot. But for all the trip we have climbed with good weather. About Franco, some problem about his crampons. When we were coming back, we have found two old war weapons!

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