Started up the NE slopes below the ridge crest, but having heard everyone talk about how much the notch sucked, made my way to the SE ridge, which was a good, stable scramble to the summit. (In getting to the SE ridge, I had climbed a little too high on the NE slopes and had to downclimb a class 4 dihedral, but it was solid.)
Hope Lake!? More like Hope Puddle.
great trail to Hope Lake, scramble from there on, especially the notch between the summits was hard. I would prefer to hang out at the lake...
Up NE ridge - I have to admit I did use a lot of F words when down climbing into the notch. I had to carry Duchess, and felt with her in my arms kind of out of balance (I guess I should not be taking the old lady for these type of adventures, but she always is so excited!). We descended some steep and exposed stuff - class 4. Down the SE ridge - much easier and more dog friendly.
My son did great during the trip (I could not even keep up with him, he ran up to Hope Lake and that is some elevation gain!), but poor kid, I pushed him too hard on those ridges, and he puked in Telluride. So, no dinner that night. Still a nice day, my "baby" recovered after a couple of cokes.
Last peak of a long weekend climbing in the San Juan, great views and surprisingly good rock (most of the way) for the area.
Beautiful views, I really enjoyed this day.
best part was seeing a moose fall through the ice on the descent
via NE ridge, a nice outing after a longer day on Dallas Pk the day before.
Ascent via NE ridge, descent via SE ridge. NE ridge was quite fun with some large boulders to negotiate up, around, over, and through. The notch between the 2 summits was somewhat tricky - probably only 3rd class, but loose. Got onto some bad pull-away kind of junk rock after the notch and had to backtrack and find a more solid route. An unexpectedly fun peak! SE ridge was easy, intended to traverse to V9 but bailed because I was really sick.
Lots of snow and ice!
Nick, thaks for making the page!
Shawn Roof and I traversed to the left (south) side under the cliffs of the east ridge. We reached the south ridge then up. This way was class three I suppose, but easier than the southwest ridge of Sneffels. We descended some easy weaknesses more on the southeast face, this was even easier than the south ridge, but not noticable on the ascent.
Either way is definitly safer than crossing that stanky, mega-rotten notch. Go left young man, go left.
have climbed this peak a couple of times,and never understood the (very general) guidebook descriptions. so i thought i'd go back and document it with some pictures. i suggest that one in fact climbs the east spur or the northeast ridge (splitting hairs maybe, but thats what the map and compass say).
i also suspect that people who call the climb class 2 must be stopping at the lower summit. descending the cleft between the lower and true summits seemed non-trivial to me - i'd call it class 4.
it's actually a very fun climb on good rock if you stay on (or very near) the ridge all the time.