We started our ascent of the Schalfkogel from the Hochwilde Haus crossing the Gurgler Ferner to the actual climb up the mountain. Because of rocks falling from the area around the waterfall this route is no longer safe. Instead there are two options, one goes further to the right through a snowfield, entering the Kleinleitenferner just above the rockfall area. We took another route, more directly up the mountain, starting to the left (south) of the rockfall directly up the mountain (steep). Here we entered the Kleinleitenferner at the very bottom. The first part of the glacier is quite steep in this area and we needed icesrews for security. After this passage we headed further up the mountain using the normal route as shown on the Alpenverein map. Our way back took us over the ridge all the way to the Firmisanjoch and then down over the glacier to the Ramolhaus, and Obergurgl. (Note: the route down to the Martin Busch Haus was in very bad condition and possibly difficult. Rockfall from the Schalfkogel, and the retreating ice caused that one has to descent on steep rock formations from the Schalfjoch before getting on the Nördlicher Schalfferner.)
rgg - Feb 25, 2011 10:44 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2008
South to north
We started at the Hochwildehaus and ascended to the ridge well south of the Schalfkogel. From there, we got to the summit over the south ridge.
Going up directly to the summit from the Hochwildehaus was too dangerous. The glacier on the eastern slope was steep, and even in July there would be avalanche danger. On the ridge close to the summit, we actually triggered a very small one as we kicked down a little bit of snow.
After the summit, we continued north on the exposed ridge for quite a while, before dropping down a bit on the eastern side again. Eventually, we made our way to the Ramolhaus.
selinunte01 - Jan 18, 2009 12:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1994
Schalfkogel traverse
We did the traverse from Hochwildehaus to Martin Busch Hütte, a very interesting traverse with great scenery. Had some difficulties to cross the creek down the valley to Martin Busch Hütte.
Route climbed: "direttissima from the Hochwilde Haus. Date climbed: summer 2004
A perfect line from the Hochwilde Haus to the summit! Hardly ever climbed.
jstanley - Jun 18, 2006 4:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2001
Ascent from Ramolhaus
I climbed Schalfkogel from Ramolhaus via the north ridge. On the return I climbed Firmisanschneide. I was lucky to have fair weather for both peaks; the next day it snowed.
pirminoldeweghuis - Mar 5, 2014 7:44 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2013
Slightly Different RouteWe started our ascent of the Schalfkogel from the Hochwilde Haus crossing the Gurgler Ferner to the actual climb up the mountain. Because of rocks falling from the area around the waterfall this route is no longer safe. Instead there are two options, one goes further to the right through a snowfield, entering the Kleinleitenferner just above the rockfall area. We took another route, more directly up the mountain, starting to the left (south) of the rockfall directly up the mountain (steep). Here we entered the Kleinleitenferner at the very bottom. The first part of the glacier is quite steep in this area and we needed icesrews for security. After this passage we headed further up the mountain using the normal route as shown on the Alpenverein map. Our way back took us over the ridge all the way to the Firmisanjoch and then down over the glacier to the Ramolhaus, and Obergurgl. (Note: the route down to the Martin Busch Haus was in very bad condition and possibly difficult. Rockfall from the Schalfkogel, and the retreating ice caused that one has to descent on steep rock formations from the Schalfjoch before getting on the Nördlicher Schalfferner.)
rgg - Feb 25, 2011 10:44 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2008
South to northWe started at the Hochwildehaus and ascended to the ridge well south of the Schalfkogel. From there, we got to the summit over the south ridge.
Going up directly to the summit from the Hochwildehaus was too dangerous. The glacier on the eastern slope was steep, and even in July there would be avalanche danger. On the ridge close to the summit, we actually triggered a very small one as we kicked down a little bit of snow.
After the summit, we continued north on the exposed ridge for quite a while, before dropping down a bit on the eastern side again. Eventually, we made our way to the Ramolhaus.
selinunte01 - Jan 18, 2009 12:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1994
Schalfkogel traverseWe did the traverse from Hochwildehaus to Martin Busch Hütte, a very interesting traverse with great scenery. Had some difficulties to cross the creek down the valley to Martin Busch Hütte.
Jurgen - Jun 22, 2006 2:58 pm
Route climbed: "direttissima from the Hochwilde Haus. Date climbed: summer 2004A perfect line from the Hochwilde Haus to the summit! Hardly ever climbed.
jstanley - Jun 18, 2006 4:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2001
Ascent from RamolhausI climbed Schalfkogel from Ramolhaus via the north ridge. On the return I climbed Firmisanschneide. I was lucky to have fair weather for both peaks; the next day it snowed.