I am just sitting here getting ready to take my daughter, her husband and 2 grand-kids up the Grand Teton in August and was reminiscing about great climbs of my youth. I did a search on Shiprock NM and found this great site and decided to share it.
In the spring of 1962, myself, Marshall Fulkerson, Carl Dunn and Dan Lynch climbed Shiprock. We set fixed lines the day before and climbed, summited and returned the same day. It was a wow. We used existing bolts for rappelling and coming down I pulled off a huge boulder hanging free on a fixed free Tyrolean type of line; I was terrified the rock would injure the members below me. It did not, but it was the most scary part of the whole climb of which were many. I loved it and it became the impetus to spend a summer in Yosemite 6 years later. I cut my eye teeth on the Tetons, but nothing compared to Shiprock.
Too bad it is illegal to climb. (I think it still is, right?)
Awesome awesome awesome awesome route. The routefinding is fantastically fun. The climbing itself isn't so great, but everything else is off the scale good! if you are climbing it during the cold months, I'd recommend looking at the honeycomb gully from the base before climbing the peak, and not climbing it if there is snow.
496th ascent along with Brian. One of the highlights of my climbing career. Not for the climbing but for the adventure. Such an awesome climb!
What an amazing place! It felt like walking in the footsteps of climbing history (especially after reading the register). Made great time and thankfully the rappels worked out. Fabulous day all around.
Yeah, so this is pretty much the most badass climb I have done to date. I've wanted to climb Tse'bi'tai since I was a kid and I finally climbed it. Left Boulder at noon on Friday, slept on a dirt road outside Shiprock, started climbing at 7:30 am, back at the car at 6:30 pm, back in Boulder at 3:30 am. What a trip! The register was a piece of great history as well. So glad I did this!!!
We were party #479. The route had a nice "adventure" feel to it. Was mostly 4th to easy 5th class. We roped up only for the 1st pitch, the traverse, and the horn pitch. Photographed entire summit log.
The peak was 1st climbed in the 30's and yet our ascent in 2001 was only the 431st overall ascent. The summit had room for one person only and the register in the ammo can was a piece of mountaineering history.
Thanks for stopping by and signing the climber's log. What a coicidence that you signed it today, this same day that I had no particular reason to go to my Ship Rock page.
I note that you gave my page 6 out of 10 stars. That's probably about what it's really worth, considering that I haven't climbed the thing. One way to make it better would be if it had a route page (or trip report). Maybe you'd like to put one up. I know some folks who would be very interested to read what you have to say about it.