After our original plans to climb the Dufourspitze and Nordend from the north failed because of an overdose of soft snow, we drove around from Switzerland to Italy to explore the Monte Rosa area from the south. The snow conditions were much better here, and we went over almost every little peak along the route from Rif. Gnifetto to Capanna Margherita - we only passed on Pyramide Vincent because we had already climbed it yesterday, and on Lyskamm East because we didn't like the look of the cornice high on its eastern ridge when we viewed it from Pyramide Vincent yesterday.
With sleep in the hut.
warm and sunny weather on the top, perfect day. it was my second climb to C.Margherita and really enjoyed it.
From Monte Rosa hut. Beautiful views of the matterhorn on the way and we trekked all the way from Zermatt and back to Zermatt on the way down. SPICY summit ridge climb, we encountered mixed conditions-steep snow, ice, steep rock scrambling with crampons. Free soloed the entire route with Matthew Sharples. Descended opposite side down icy chute with fixed lines which were iced over. Using a hand line was a little sketchy as usually these sections would be rappelled. Massive storm and powerful thunder overtook us right as we got down the mountain. We were scared witless and almost ran down the mountain because the air was so charged with electricity, got a bit spooked and I even felt a fuzzy sensation, sort of like a little jolt at the very upper part of my forehead.
With my loved Inti.
Great ascent with no problems up to the Capanna Margherita
Climbed from Citta di Mantova. Found it to be fairly long walk but great when you arrive at the summit and are at your final destination for the day!
We have reached the Margherita hut, but we renunced at the Zumstein, it was too cold and the wind too strong, we will go there the next time...
Our final target that day. After climbed up several surrounding peaks, we arrived at Capanna Margherita quite tired and sleepy. Nice service in the hut :)
A part of our trip around Monte Rosa's plateau.
Climbed in perfect weather with Igi.
We came from the Quintino Sella hut and climbed Lyskamm Il Naso, Lowenshohe and Parrotspitze before. We reached the hut finally in a afternoon snow storm but what a great hut at 4500m!
Climbed the Signalkuppe in 1982 and spent 2 nights up at the Margarite Hut, up on the summit. The low atmospheric pressure was apparent when one of my companions opened a container of milk powder, which then erupted like a mini-volcano, plastering him in milk powder from head to foot.
From the Sella hut we went over Il Naso (4100 meter) on to the Monte Rosa trail. In good but windy conditions we traversed the Parrotspitze before reaching the Margherita hut on top Signalkuppe. Coming next morning there was no visibility and we had to cancel Zumsteinspitze and Dufourspitze and instead delicately find our way down the Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa hut in poor visibility. (July 27, 2000).
Fifth and last summit of the day...phew! Enjoyed pizza in the hut and then started the long way down back to the valley. Tiring, but an absolutely super day!!
From Gnifetti hut. Monte Rosa is really glacier safari...Perfect.
Went up for a meal and a drink in the Margerithahut, nice pasta and what a wiew!
Used for acclimatisation. Started the climb from approx 100m above the Monte Rosa hut where we were camped. Did not use rope as glacier in good condition still.
...margherita with the ski, and margherita it was.
After a previouse attempt stopped at lyskjock for the fog, this time after a heavy snowing the day before i reached the hut with other 3 skiers met along the way.
foggy again but then, from lysjock for about 1 hour lasted a great view.
Satuday the weather ws sunny and warm. Wonderfull snow from the top down to Gressoney. But unfortunalty when we left the Gnifetti Hut at 6 AM of Sunday 5th April was snowing and foggy.
In 1:30 we reached the Lysjoch and then.....we wait a while but we were not lucky. The fog turned even thicker.
Then we skied down all the way till gressoney.
Climbed together with Ludwigshöhe and Signalkuppe during a 5-day tour thorugh the Monte Rosa massiv. Visit the photo gallery at: Photo Gallery