Simul-climbing upper Red Slate

Simul-climbing upper Red Slate couloir. Brad Mastros and I agreed that the slope angle was 50+ degrees. The final exit move was approx. 60 degrees. Lake Constance in the background: July 15, 2007 (Photo: Miguel Forjan).


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rhyang - Jul 16, 2007 10:19 am - Voted 10/10

Nice work Miguel !

Wow, I heard this thing was more like 40 degrees. What did you use for pro ? Long screws ?


forjan - Jul 16, 2007 11:17 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Nice work Miguel !

Thanks Rob. Lower down in the couloir is around 40 degrees, however, the upper part was steeper...especially the exit (similarly to last year's Solstice Couloir exit). I found like 3 water ice patches that I could set regular size (16cm) ice screws. After exiting, I was able to set a rock anchor to climber's left on a crack and bring up Brad. The rock up each side of the couloir sucks; it's loose!

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