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Page Type:
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Trip Report |
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Lat/Lon:
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36.00441°N / 75.79353°E |
Date Climbed/Hiked:
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Sep 5, 2018 |
Activities:
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Hiking |
Season:
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Fall |
Add Heading Here
Include text here.Skam La (5,410 m) and Sim La (5,390 m) are 2 high passes in Baltistan, both in snowlake region. We planned to cross these passes in first week of Sep, 2018. Alhamdulillah we could successfully cross both of them. Team: I was traveling as a solo member with a team of 9 porters and guide. Team included: Muhammad Adeel (member from Karachi), Shareef Sadpara ( Guide from Sadpara), Akbar Hussain Sadpara (HAP from Sadpara), Abdul Waheed (Guide from Astor), Younus, Yaqub, Mehdi, Abbas, Nisar, Ismail (Porters from Sadpara).
Summary: Day wise summary can be found below, with start and end point of each day.
Day 01 - Karachi to Skardu (By Air) Day 02 - Skardu to Korphone (Jeep + 2 hrs trek) Day 03 - Korphone to Sokh Day 04 - Sokh to Chinchangh Biyangah Day 05 - Chinchangh Biy to Aboltok Day 06 - Aboltok to Nobande Sobande Ad camp Day 07 - Ad camp to Skam La to Sim Gang Glacier Day 08 - Sim Gang Gl to Sim La to Dolonma Day 09 - Dolonma to Jhola Day 10 - Jhola to Skardu ( 5 hrs Trek + Jeep) Day 11 - Skardu to Karachi (Road + Air)
Details I have tried to put together some details from each day. Hope other trekker fellows will find it helpful and its not very boring.
Day 01:
At 6:15 in the morning, sunny is driving crazily towards Jinnah international airport. I am late for my flight to Islamabad. Luckily, I am on board. Its 9 am, we are landing at Islamabad’s new runway. 2 hours I take off for Skardu. 12:30 I meet Waheed at Skardu airport. At Indus Motel, I meet our guide Shareef sadpara and HAP Akbar Hussain Sadpara. I think from first meeting, we start judging each other for rest of the day.
Day 02:
At 6 in the morning, a loader jeep is being loaded with our luggage. We cross the Sarfaranga desert where preparations for jeep race festival is on going. At 7:30, we take a stopover at Shigar for breakfast. Arrange some chicken meat to be used during early days of trek. At Dassu army checkpost, we register our names and show permit letter. Also we are completely out of cellular coverage now. Its 12:30 and we are about to reach Askole. A lot of plastic and other garbage can be seen wandering freely in the town. We have Chicken Karahi at Lahore restaurant which i believe is the only restaurant here. Guide arranges 2 more porters from here. Finally our Jeep takes us to last jeep able point, that is Askole maidan. Its 3 pm, when we are finally starting our trek. First day, first walk obviously is the easiest and fastest. Me and Waheed are the first ones to reach Korphone. It took us 2 hrs. Though its a nice campsite with some greenery and availability of clear water but i dont like it much. Its polluted with a lot garbage and plastic. Obviously so, as its part of Concordia trek. Tomorrow we will leave concordia trek and hoping next campsite is more clean. Chicken purchased from Shigar is our dinner tonight. I have still not learnt the names of all the porters but we are slowly getting to know each other. They are not only porters and guides from today, they are my friends and family for next 10 days. Sky is clear with thousands of stars visible from naked eyes.
Day 03:
Things are more streamlined. Weights have been distributed. Team is more integrated now. Yunus prepares a nice breakfast for us. We start the trek with beautiful views of Baltoro nala distributed in several tributaries. After 2 hours, we turn inside Latok naala which is rather narrow and does not offer wide views of the valley. After 1 hr we are at Jhola campsite. Another 3-4 hours of walk brings us to a rather green campsite called ‘Sokh’. Camp is being set up. I am not accustomed of ending the day so early during my treks, its only 3 pm. But then Yunus serves hot french fries, and the trick works! It lifts my mood !! He is a good cook, other porters are also nice. I am going to have a good time. In kitchen tent, our guide Sharif sahab have a lot of stories to tell. Especially from his trips with Nayyer Qasim. I listen to his story of Skam la carefully, everyone adds his few pennies. My mind is shaky with the circumstances, we might have in next few days. I come back to my tent.
Day 04:
Early in the morning, there is beautiful sound of birds chirping at our campsite. I can feel a positive energy here. Its a beautiful morning! And I can’t wait to start the trek! So at 6:30, i leave the campsite all alone. Half an hour later I see the team coming from behind, and few minutes later i see them leaving me behind. We are exchanging fun comments. After crossing a few naalas, we enter in a lush green campsite. Its ‘Panmah’. It resembles with Bitanmil campsite on Hispar side. We have already trekked for 4 hours but still not tired. From here onwards moraines of Choktoi glacier start. On advise of porters from Askole, we diagonally cross the moraines to the right side leaving behind Dolonmah and Morli Biyangah on left. The cruelty of moraines is never ending and we cross several scree slopes with danger of rock fall. After 3 hours long struggle, we are finally climbing uphill towards a trail on right side. There is a small but nice pasture here, calling for a tea break. We resume our trek for 2 hours.This walk reminds me of the beautiful walk between Shafong and Baintha campsites on Biafo trek. But it is more untouched and less traveled and has a wider view of the valley ahead. Trail is full of wild plants. Finally we reach Chinchingah Biyangah campsite. Chinchangh Biyangah roughly means an open field/maidan where firewood is available. Its true as abundant wood and water is available here. Porters have started baking naans (a thick bread) on woods, and i am just sitting beside them, enjoying the scene. In no time, Yunus brings french fries again. He knows ‘sahab ke dil ka rasta french fries se hokar guzarta hai’. With beautiful views of Skamri range, I finish these fries. What a lovely evening! We have left behind the civilization and getting closer to our target. So we are talking more seriously about the pass. We are more friendly and less homesick. Every one is positive and no one shows a slightest doubt about crossing.
Day 05:
Morning is cloudy, we traverse through the moraines and crevasses for 2 hrs. After that, we are walking on plain glacier, which is still covered with slit and small rocks but less difficult to walk through. Porters team which is ahead of us have an encounter with a group of Markhors crossing to the left side. We can see Markhors up on the mountain ridges. No wonder why a green campsite on our right side is called Skinmang (balti word for a place where markhors stay). An hour later, we have skipped Skinmang and now crossing Drenmang on our right. Drenmag is balti word for a place where bears stay!
Day 06:
Askole porters had a change of mind. They are not willing to cross the pass. They leave from here. With this situation, we might not be able to cross the pass today as we have more weight and less porters. Anyway by 6:30, i leave the campsite with Akbar and Waheed. After crossing a crevasse zone we are finally on white glacier of Nobande Sobande. Here its terrain is very similar to Hispar glacier. Sounds of snow crushing under our boots is lovely. As the sun shines, it gives a beautiful view of a wide glacial basin ahead of us. I am already falling in love with this glacier and this trek. The views that surround us are amazing. I feel great as if nature is sending a positive and motivational energy from all around. ‘Ohh my God!!!’ i have to shout as i realize what i have seen just now. The rare sight of the summit of Baintha Brakk is visible from this side! Its towering above all peaks on our left. There is another sheer beauty standing just in center left, later i learned its name is Shark’s Fin. Then at the center we see Skam La. It seems very tempting and inviting! I cant wait to be at the top. But everyone else wants a break! They know how far it is and how long it gonna take us. They have no delusions. After 12, our speed has reduced due to the melting snow because of clear sunshine. Porters encounter few minor accidents on crevasses and finally request to camp just below the pass. We place our advance camp at a height of 5,200 m. There is white wash everywhere and we are camping just above the wide snow basin of Nobande Sobande that seems more like snow lake. Pass is so close that its unbelievable! Early I go to my tent preparing for the big thing next morning. I plan to sleep early but get up from sleep after a few hours. I am still awake and its middle of the night. Clear and distinct sounds of snow flakes falling on my tent are hitting hard. Increasing my already fast heartbeat. I think weather has changed and it might not be possible to proceed of the snowstorm continues. I have such a bad memory of crossing Lupke La, even thinking of it makes me negative. I try to ignore whats going on outside, and think about my daughters. But its even worst, i miss them and i hate being here. I need to hide somewhere else. I knock on several doors in my memory lane to find a comfortable place to disappear, but everything is too nostalgic and going through every memory comes at an emotional cost. Angry winds pushing my tent. Tipping sounds of snow and hail on my tent have magnified. Its cold. I have difficulty in breathing. May be its height! I want to sleep.
Day 07:
At 5, there is a lot of activity on campsite. I doubt if i am awake. Wondering what might be waiting outside, i get up. Surprisingly Team is almost ready. Its snowing lightly in freezing cold. I take a cup of tea and we start our final ascend towards top of Skam La. The glacier is too hard to walk without crampons. In 90 minutes, we are almost standing near the top where a big crevasse separates the top most part from rest of the glacier. HAP Akbar and Shareef sahab have managed to climb up to the top and now fixing an ice bar and rope. We use this rope to climb up; I use Jumar and its fun! At 7:30 am we are at the top of Skam La, but due to low visibility views are limited on both sides. Standing at the top of any pass always lifts up your mood and energy. No matter what may come next. Pass itself is merely 5-10 meters wide and there is not much space to walk around. Its made of huge glacial pieces that are housing many hidden and unhidden crevasses. Its a cruel world! Shareef and Akbar are descending into a big crevasse to make way for other team members. In first part, 45 m rope is fixed on a steep wall which has a wide crevasse opening in its base. Using crampon we rappel to a flat surface that is merely few feet wide. From here another ice bar is fixed and a big crevasse is crossed using 70 m fixed rope. This is harsh and cold side of Skam La, which seemed so calm and peaceful on the other side. Between ruthless open crevasses and high risk of avalanche we do not have any time for rest; one must keep moving till a safe haven is found. But at the same time, the whole experience is breathtaking and full of thrills. Finally we have managed to descent through a giant crevasse and now we are standing at a very small but flat surface, where everyone and all the weights are being moved. This specific point is highly avalanche prone! I look up to the peak standing just above our heads, there is a lot of fresh snow and angle is perfect for it to slide, and cover us. We dont have many options anyway. Once all the weights and porters have been brought down, we move together with a safety rope, finding our way through several small openings. Descent is steep and visibility is almost zero. I doubt if we are on the right track as we cant see anything but a white wash. An hour later, when visibility returns we can see ourselves almost walking in naala leading to snow lake. Wow! Its done! We have crossed Skam la Alhamdulillah! It calls for celebration. In no time, we are having a small party with tea, biscuits and parathas from morning. A lot of pictures are taken. Finally we have managed to cross our first pass, and i cant be more happy. From here onwards, we move in 2 teams. Porters are following us. After 2 hours, we have left nala coming from Skam and now entering in snowlake. Clear views of Lupke La and Hispar La openly flirt with us. I dont know why every pass is so tempting. Walking on snowlake, brings a feeling of comfort as if i am coming back to home. Its my 3rd time here and i am more familiar with its terrain. Its not one sided i am sure. Snowlake is giving a warm welcome as i am constantly being pulled down by its crevasses.!
Day 08:
I couldnt take much sleep. I think no one could. Last night we have decided to leave very early for Sim La. So i am waiting to hear them leaving. Strong wind beating my tent from everywhere. Advance team leaves the campsite at 03:15. I have to make a lot of effort to leave my warm sleeping bag. Night over snowlake is dark, windy and freezing cold. Anyway we have managed to start by 4 AM finding footsteps of advance team in light of our headlamps. Soon after, a dim light takes over the dark night. Snowlake seems washed out. The transition of dark night to twilight to actual sunrise over snowlake is something not to be missed. I take several short breaks to find an excuse to sit and look back at this magical sight. We can feel a huge presence of Baintha brakk here. We are walking just beside it. Its summit is in clouds, but still one can realize its magnitude and wilderness. In merely 3 hours of hike, Baintha sends down several avalanches from its shoulders, as if showing off its muscles. I try to imagine how the 2 climbers in its first climb had descended from its steep rocky walls, when one had a broken leg and the other one was suffering from pneumonia! The more i imagine this looking at huge rock of Baintha, the more it strengthens my faith in destiny! The traverse to Sim la from snowlake side is a story of daas (داس) and daar (دار). Daas is a wide basin or open field, while daar is like a wall. We climb up on one snow daar and then enter a big daas then another daar is crossed to enter into another daas. This keeps repeating countless times till you are on top of the pass. Its 8 AM when we stand right on top of Sim la. But we have a surprise?! Advance team is very busy. The way our guide had decided to use for descent is no more there! They are now trying to figure out a new route. Sim la descent can be divided in 2 steep descents. The first part is more technical and needs more careful approach as glacier on the other side is completely broken. It looks like as if several pieces of a white cake with several white layers are put on top of each other. HAP is now struggling to make a way from extreme right. Due to extreme wind, we hude behind our bags and luggage. After an hour we get green signal! We have to rappel on a wall inclined at 80 degrees. 70m rope is fixed in this part. We descend to a very small area. Once everyone is here we analyze the next and bigger trouble. A very steep never ending wall of ice is the only way down to the glacier coming from Latok side. It is squeezed by crevasses on both sides, and have indications of a fresh avalanche in form of many ice balls of all sizes. Weather is turning harsh with strong winds blowing from north. Our guide Shareef sahab is rappelling on this wall. It seems never ending. Everyone is anxious and puzzled. The route through this wall is risky, but there is no other option. While so much is on going, I have to sit here in an awe! I have to ask myself what i see is a dreamscape or a reality. The more i look at it, the more i am convinced that this is the real take away of our trek. I dont know if definition of MAGNIFICENCE can justify this scene! Imagine, Baintha brakk is towering above our heads, while an entirely wild world of Latok range is right in front of us, its white glacier is swirling around a a small mountain, wilderness of Sim gang glacier and giant crevasse openings on both sides, all in a single view and we are part of it. An otherworldly feeling is taking over me. Seemingly 2 very tiny spots are some climbers crawling up in lower part of Latok 1. Awesomeness of this scene convinces me that all of our past efforts and even the future ones have been rewarded. ‘Paseena khushk honay se pehle hi ojrat dedi gayi hai.’ We are brought here to witness it. I feel overwhelmed and full of a mystic feeling. Subhan ﷲ, subhan ﷲ!!! Now lets go back to the facts; the path through this wall is really not easy. All the rope that we have (300 m) is passing through a knot of 8 that is tied to an icebar. Its hanging loosely at the bottom. It has to take one team member at a time, while rest of the team to hold it from the top. One needs to be extremely careful and stay on defined path, else he will be eaten up by crevasses on either side. This huge effort and slow descent has taken 3-4 hours for the whole team to be at the bottom of this wall. And its just the first descent. Further down, glacier is not getting friendly. We move with a safety rope making our way through small and large crevasses. At 4 in the evening, we are near Ogre basecamp. All of us have been moving for last 12 hours without any break. The technical descent of Sim La has taken a toll on all of us; everyone is tired and exhausted. Its not a good time for celebration, everyone imagines about a green campsite. We take a small tea break and move forward to find our imagery green pasture that, according to Shareef sahab, is very near. We finally give up at 8:30 and plan to setup camp on glacier. Waheed does his magic and converts the glacial surface into a smooth surface. I am dehydrated and low on sugar, shivering on and off. The kitchen tent gets warmer in no time and after an hour its filled with aroma of Biryani masala. Though we are lying on uneven rocks but now the the joyous feeling of crossing Sim La brings enough comfort. We have crossed both the passes and gifted with several unforgettable moments. We cant be more thankful to Almighty for His kindness. I am so relieved that i can sleep on these rocks without any sleeping mattress or bag. Well as i return to my tent a warm sleeping bag is waiting for me. Tonight i get the best sleep of my trek.
Day 09:
Early morning we get up, i brush my teeth and immediately start walking. Idea is to have breakfast at the ‘nearby’ green campsite. Porters are more eager and they are displaying more speed. They have found our green campsite and now its time to celebrate Sim La crossing. Here a very pur-takalluf breakfast is prepared. There is Omlette, Jam and freshly baked parathas/bread. While its raining, we sit under tirpaal, drinking long sips of tea. The green pasture and plenty of wild flowers are superimposed by the strong aroma of desi ghee. We are not dancing but it seems the whole valley is dancing wildly. Ghalib’s ghazal is playing on speaker. بے طلب جو ملا، ملا مجھ کو بے غرض جو دیا، دیا تو نے
After the most memorable breakfast of our trek we are back on a smooth trail. Its a beautiful walk of 4 hours till Panmah. By the evening we are at a green campsite near Jhola that we named Jhola anyways. We have decided to be at Askole by noon and then immediately move to Skardu via jeep. Unfortunately we are not carrying any Satellite phone and there is no mode of communication to call the jeep in Askole by the time we are there. So after reaching Jhola Waheed suggests that he should leave for Askole after dinner and call the jeep very early in the morning, so by the noon we can have our jeep in Askole Maidan. We love this idea, though i am a bit concerned how they will continue in dark after a long and hectic day of trekking. Anyway waheed with one porter Nisar leaves for Askole after dinner. They reach Askole at 2 am in the morning.
Day 10:
We start early and by 9:30 we are at Korphone. It takes another 2 hours to reach Askole maidan, hoping Waheed is waiting here with a jeep. But there is no one waiting for us and i am more surprised on Waheed, at least he could be here even if jeep couldnt be arrange. It is unlike him. We start ascending from Maidan, but soon Shareef bhai’s shout stops us. He can see a jeep coming towards us!! Such a big relief!! I think one of the best moments of every trek is when you are sure that the trek has finally ended. The journey from Askole to Skardu is not event free! Its a long story. But to cut it short, we have one of the most memorable jeep ride till Skardu. And waheed becomes everyone’s favorite. Will write about it another time. At midnight, we are at the gate of Indus Hotel in Skardu, beating the doors and nobody is opening it. Finally Fida wakes up and opens the hotel gate. I settle the funds in my room and pay for the services. Immediately I leave for Islamabad as the flight to Skardu is full for next 2 days.
Day 11:
The car/taxi from Skardu drops me at departure terminal of new Islamabad International airport. Its 4 pm, i have been traveling for last 2 days. All flights to Karachi are full, i am on waiting list. I get lucky and get on board. At 11:30, I am sitting with Ammi and sherry, sharing stories non stop!! Madeeha has made Biryani and i cant wait to have it. Zinneerah and Zirwah are in my lap looking at my sun burnt nose and eager to tell their side of story !!
The end!