Pitch 1, 90’, WI 4, M 5/Again, I did not see this pitch anywhere close to this grade, but it is what the local guide book suggests. Climb up the short fall, stemming out right on the rock when needed. The ice can be hollow and thin on this section requiring the use of screamers. Mounting the chock stone to the left is the crux of the entire climb we thought. The ice runs into snow at a straight vertical move. Either dry tool and/or heave your tools into the thin ice and snow above the chock stone. Once on top of the chock stone, hike up the snow and either belay off of a fixed station on our left that might be covered in snow (2010) or hike back right and belay off of a large tree, in the afternoon sun.
Skylight, II, WI 5, M 5, Camp Bird Road, Ouray, CO, January, 2011