On hike to base two young guys asked if they could go ahead of us. Unfortunately I was courteous. They must have assumed because I was with a girl we we slow. We were waiting on them by the end of the first pitch as they missed the chains and decided to build anchors. They did the same thing on pitch 2. We spent 30 mins waiting several times. Finally, we decided to jump on the 5.8 to finish up and avoid them. Back at he car, my friend John ad his wife surprised us with a cold beer! We spent the evening at their local place catching up and it was a nice visit.
Perfect time with the perfect man.
On the 6th pitch of the Regular it started to rain, then snow. We couldn't move another 10 feet in any direction without slipping. I had to do a running rappel to the right and managed to grab something on the swing over, before I would swing back. I set up another anchor here (with nuts etc), and did the same style swing rappel to the bushes where we could steeply scramble down in the dark and cold. Nothing like swing rappelling on gear, but we had no choice. I'm still alive.
During the 70s there were approximately 7 routes put up on Slick Rock that were never reported in any climbing literature. They ranged from 5.2 to 5.10 and all were climbed clean on lead with no bolts being placed over a period of two and a half decades. What happened?
Clean granite w/ cracks reminiscent of Yosemite's Royal Arches route. Led all pitches.
Partner: Pam Casey
Climbed the Regular route in 7 long pitches with a 70m rope. That's over 1400 feet of climbing! There are a few bolted belays just to the left of the crack. I couldn't tell if this was the Slippery Slope route or if someone just added these for the regular route. We used one of them on top of the 5th pitch. Someone also put a bolted route just to the right of the regular route, very close to the crack (<10 feet). Too bad.