My wife and I climbed there for a day in 2005 - it was one of our favourite spots at Smith. We did 6 or 7 routes, including:
Cosmos, Screaming Yellow Zonkers (a fun climb on pebbles), and a nice arete climb (about 10d) to the right of SYZ.
Chimney The Chelly. Shirley led pitches 1 & 3; I led 2. Bad bolts at P1 belay & the bolt on P2...climbing is not hard but the poor belay was on our minds when climbing P2. P1 crux seemed hard for 10a imho btw. I like obscure smith routes but this one somehow did not tickle me??
Massive Luxury Overdose. Nice, long 10 sport pitch. RP'd on 2nd go.
Cosmos. Nice 10a sport pitch. Couple times.
Screaming Yellow Zonkers. Nice 10b sport pitch. Climbed it once and took 2 falls :) Shirley led it and pretty much walked up (I still had to think a bit on TR...)
Sundown. Nice 5.9 crack. Bouldery start (harder than anything on Trezlar IMHO) followed by nice dihedral (sort of). Twice; I led & Shirley led.
Trezlar. Nice 10a crack. Forgettable 1st pitch. Very nice second pitch. Soft for the grade IMHO. Twice; I led & Shirley led.
Tale Of Two Shitties. Nice 10a crack. Bit o' chunky rock on P1; rest is nice. Came back 2nd time & did first two pitches with Shirley leading the crux. Very fun!
AJones - Mar 1, 2009 12:25 am
Climbed there onceMy wife and I climbed there for a day in 2005 - it was one of our favourite spots at Smith. We did 6 or 7 routes, including:
Cosmos, Screaming Yellow Zonkers (a fun climb on pebbles), and a nice arete climb (about 10d) to the right of SYZ.
rpc - Sep 13, 2005 7:59 pm
Route Climbed: Multiple Date Climbed: MultipleChimney The Chelly. Shirley led pitches 1 & 3; I led 2. Bad bolts at P1 belay & the bolt on P2...climbing is not hard but the poor belay was on our minds when climbing P2. P1 crux seemed hard for 10a imho btw. I like obscure smith routes but this one somehow did not tickle me??
Massive Luxury Overdose. Nice, long 10 sport pitch. RP'd on 2nd go.
Cosmos. Nice 10a sport pitch. Couple times.
Screaming Yellow Zonkers. Nice 10b sport pitch. Climbed it once and took 2 falls :) Shirley led it and pretty much walked up (I still had to think a bit on TR...)
Sundown. Nice 5.9 crack. Bouldery start (harder than anything on Trezlar IMHO) followed by nice dihedral (sort of). Twice; I led & Shirley led.
Trezlar. Nice 10a crack. Forgettable 1st pitch. Very nice second pitch. Soft for the grade IMHO. Twice; I led & Shirley led.
Tale Of Two Shitties. Nice 10a crack. Bit o' chunky rock on P1; rest is nice. Came back 2nd time & did first two pitches with Shirley leading the crux. Very fun!