Smith: Monkey Face Climber's Log

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SarahThompson

SarahThompson - May 3, 2016 9:13 pm Date Climbed: May 2, 2016

West Face Variation   Sucess!

West Face Variation to summit in 4 pitches. Did the direct 2 pitch line to Bohn Street. Led P1 & P3 (bolt ladder). After climbing 5 pitches in the morning, long day!

SawtoothSean

SawtoothSean - Apr 1, 2014 9:44 pm Date Climbed: Mar 12, 2014

Original Route

Made it up the bolt ladder and into the mouth. Very cool climbing and easy aid

bedellympian

bedellympian - Aug 11, 2013 10:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2013

west face var  Sucess!

rain and thunder didn't stop us but my butter fingers almost did

SKI

SKI - Sep 4, 2011 11:18 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2011

Good times!  Sucess!

With Shaner. Bolt ladder was cool enough. Blistering hot outside. Got to tyrol across to the diving board.

ExcitableBoy

ExcitableBoy - Dec 28, 2010 9:30 am

Pioneers route  Sucess!

Did this route a couple of times. Along with Zebra-Zion one of my favorites in the park.

noahs213

noahs213 - Jul 2, 2010 5:09 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2010

Amazing  Sucess!

One amazing climb.

Vinny

Vinny - May 28, 2010 12:13 pm

fun times  Sucess!

I think the first time I did this was with Corey and Alex (about 6 at the time- went on to be a competitive climber). really neat place and great first bolt ladder for me : )
awesome exposure. I get the willys thinking about the tightrope walk option.

skook

skook - Mar 18, 2010 2:40 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009

Great Exposure  Sucess!

Great exposure stepping out of the mouth! Great climb.

Mr. Clam

Mr. Clam - Apr 1, 2008 12:40 am Date Climbed: Mar 31, 2008

Pioneer  Sucess!

A great climb, did the bolt ladder with no aiders and had a bit of trouble but not too bad.

spotly

spotly - Jul 20, 2007 3:35 pm Date Climbed: May 6, 2006

Pioneer Route

Climbed with Brian F. Got a bit off on the first pitch and lowered down to the start of pitch 2 LOL. What a blast coming over the notch then out the mouth. Good stuff. Not a single soul seen the entire climb...on a nice Saturday!

pvalchev

pvalchev - Aug 19, 2006 6:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006

West face + Pioneer  Sucess!

Very cool climb... did draw pull-ups on the way up the A0 pitch, no need for 'aid gear' as there are lots of footholds and the bolts are really close together. Awesome double rope rappel!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Aug 19, 2006 5:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2006

West Face Variation  Sucess!

We pulled on our draws instead of aiding...goes easy and fast. Definitely better than the Pioneer route. Those bottom two pitches are great. Not Utah, but still fun.

Scott Dusek

Scott Dusek - Jul 17, 2006 8:22 am Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2006

Pioneer Route  Sucess!

Awesome to finally climb the monkey face. The bolt ladder was interesting. We did some kind of variation out of panic point that traversed right and took us all the way to the top, prolonging the crazy exposure. I'd rate the variation as 5.8 with a healthy 25ft plus runout at one point, totally worth it, must've combined a few routes.

-Scotty

M and N Denyer

M and N Denyer - Oct 31, 2005 1:41 pm

Route Climbed: Pioneer Route/Monkey Off My Back Date Climbed: October 16, 2005  Sucess!

Enjoyed another climb up the Monkey on a beautiful fall day at Smith. The Monkey Off My Back pitch was exciting and definitely highlighted the exposure well. As always, fun rappel.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Oct 16, 2005 10:52 pm

Route Climbed: Pioneer Route with Monkey Off My Back finish variation Date Climbed: October 16, 2005  Sucess!

Whew, finally stood on top. With M and N Denyer. First pitch easy. Second Pitch no problems. We were the third party of 4 this day to do the Big Primate. Weather was sunny and about 70. Aid pitch went off pretty quick without a hitch. Didn't even get cold in the Mouth. I made Mark tell me he was just doing the easy route up to the Nose but of course, he did not. So, not only did I get the pucker of Panic Point, had to do the 5.8 traverse while gripped out several hundred overhung feet off the deck. Many profanities later....................... I was standing on the top. Then, the long twisting free air rap. Was glad to get this one done and thanks to the Denyers for the great weekend at Smith.

PellucidWombat

PellucidWombat - Sep 17, 2005 7:19 pm

Route Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: September 3rd, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed this awesome spire with Dirk on an extended trip to OR to climb the 3 Sisters. I expected that I could just jug up the aid pitch, but instead I had to learn how to aid climb on the spot (and in the dark) to clean the pitch! I never realized how exausting aid climbing was until then :-)



I tried to wimp out at the cave, but Dirk insisted on finishing, and I'm glad we did! The views were wonderful, and the rappel in the dark was freaky, especially as the wind began spinning me!

Diggler

Diggler - Sep 8, 2005 12:15 pm

Route Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: 3 September, 2005  Sucess!

Awesome formation, enjoyable climb! First attempt at aid.



Having driven in from NorCal the night before, got a late start, leaving the parking lot at 15.25. Started the climb at 17.20.



First 2 pitches were easy but fun. Bolt ladder pitch took awhile, but not overly difficult except for that piece of shit adjustable daisy chain that I just could NOT figure out how to use correctly- whenever I weighted it, it would slowly start extending! Panic point was aptly named- knowing the rope ran over a reasonably sharp edge from the belay cave, & the deep, sucking void directly below me in the dark, had me clinging to those buckets for dear life (not to mention sitting around in a cave getting chilled and cramped for an hour or 2 also beforehand!)- definitely the most psychologically taxing 5.7 I've done! Final 'pitch' was short, easy, & enjoyable. Finally topped out @ 12.37. Seeing the lights of Terrebonne & Bend below & being under the stars was really cool.



Free-hanging rappel in the dark was sweet!

hkutuk

hkutuk - Jun 15, 2005 7:39 pm

Route Climbed: West Face Variation Date Climbed: June 11, 2005  Sucess!

This was simply an awesome climb. This was my third attempt (all from different routes) and finally standing on top of this pillar was incredible. Climbed with Jim first the 3-pitch West Face Variation to Bohn street. These additional 3 pitches are definitely well worth the effort. Aiding the bolt ladder instead of jumaring was much easier. The long rappel and hanging free in the air was also quite exciting. Great climb, thanks Jim!

jtschanz

jtschanz - Jun 13, 2005 11:45 am

Route Climbed: West Face Variation Date Climbed: June 11, 2005  Sucess!

After our failure last fall, it was great to finally stand on top of Monkey Face. The West Face Variation is an awesome route by itself, but even more fun when combined with the bolt ladder and the summit. Unless you're skilled at jumaring, it's definitely faster to have the second simply aid the bolt ladder also. I had been looking forward to the "Panic Point" pitch for almost a year - ever since the last attempt - and this time it was much easier and more enjoyable. This is a route I wouldn't mind doing again.

cluck

cluck - Jun 1, 2005 1:34 am

Route Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: May 29, 2005  Sucess!

Wow - that's one of the toughest "easy" climbs I've ever done. At 5.7 A0, the rating suggests fairly straightforward climbing, but you really have to earn this one. The mix of trad, sport, and aid requires some well-thought-out strategy if you want to complete the route in reasonable time. Moving out of the mouth cave and onto the face was the hardest 5.7 climbing I've ever done. All technique went out the window and I had a death-grip on the holds.



All-in-all a spectacular climb that I can't wait to repeat!

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