jhalz - Aug 25, 2003 11:51 am - Hasn't voted
Worth it?Radek,
We are thinking of heading to SEWS to the same route you guys did, at that grade (5.4?) is it worth doing? Or is there something in that region of about the same grade you'd suggest over that route? Thanks.
Jason
Martin Cash - Aug 25, 2003 12:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Worth it?I'm sure Radek will put in his 2 cents worth as well, but here in my opinion. The South Arete of SEWS is a decent climb. The first pitch has about 40 feet of good climbing to 5.4 or 5.5. The rest of the pitch is 3rd and 4th class. The second pitch has a 5.4 move around a chockstone. The rest of the 2nd pitch and the remainder of the route is 2nd to 4th class unroped or simulclimbing on terrain with quite a bit of vegetation. Does that sound like what you are looking for? The route is very popular, so expect company. It is a good beginners route, and an easy first alpine lead.
The Beckey Route on Liberty Bell would be another option. This route features higher quality rock with more 5th class sections, and less vegetation. The approach is shorter too. The 5.6 sections are the easiest 5.6 you will ever do. I would recommend this route over the South Arete on SEWS.
rpc - Aug 25, 2003 12:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Worth it?Jason,
Well it sort of depends on what you're looking for? The route is definitely pretty easy - probably only the first pitch feels like 5th class (and only the opening moves feel like 5.4/5.5); then there's a easy chimney move somewhere on pitch two and an exposed but easy friction slab traverse. Rest is class 3 - 4. It does take you to the summit of the spire though and that makes it very much worth it in my book. If you're looking for a step up from this route, try the Becky Route (if you guys have not done it) on Liberty Bell. It's more sustained but still pretty easy. Pitch 2 has some 5.6 moves that are well protected. Those are the only two routes we've done to date in the Liberty Bell group. Think the next steps up in difficulty are the north face routes of Concord and Lexington (think they're 5.7's according to folks on SP). There's also a 5.6 route (haven't done it) to top of Cutthroat Peak across the highway (think it's II, 5.6). Got a friend leading the climb in that area beg. of September - just wondering who are you doing the climb with?
Curious as to what you decide to do.
Radek
jhalz - Aug 25, 2003 12:21 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Worth it?Martin,
This is the kind of info I'm looking for. Thank you. It will be a first alpine lead for me, so I definitely don't want to overstep my limitations. Thanks again for the beta.
Jason
jhalz - Aug 25, 2003 12:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Worth it?Radek,
Being that it is going to be a first alpine lead, I would probably lean towards the SEWS, but the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell sounds very intriguing. What book would you recommend for this area? Not exactly sure who is climbing, possibly Jeff Gamer, Andy Basque, Patrick Wang, Michael Howes, Tom Strodbeck and myself. We did the Tatoosh Traverse with this group this last weekend. I think I heard Patrick mention we were following a route description from you. We are looking at climbing SEWS or Liberty Bell next Monday.
Jason
rpc - Aug 25, 2003 12:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Worth it?Jason,
I think the route is in a few books. Obviously it's in The Bible itself, but I think Jeff Smoot's Rock Climbing WA also includes it. You might also want to check one of the two volumes of Nelson & Potterfields N. Cascade Classic Climbs. This is definitely a great first alpine trad lead to a gorgeous summit! Up high on the route, when doing the friction traverse, there's bolt 1/2 way across you can clip (think it's easy to miss).
How was the Tatoosh traverse? Did you hit "all" the peaks?
Radek
jhalz - Aug 25, 2003 1:03 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Worth it?We hit :
-Boundry
-Unicorn
-Castle
-Pinnacle
-Plumber
-Demmer(?)
-Lane
-Wahpenayo
-Chutla
-Eagle
We had great weather, with views of Rainier the whole time. I plan on hitting a couple of those peaks this winter.
cluck - Aug 25, 2003 3:02 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Worth it?Thinking about hitting Tatoosh + Stevens. Did you guys take two days or cram it all into one long day?
Thoughts on ability of doing it in one day with a very small group (maybe only 2), going light and fast?
We are even thinking about setting up bikes at one end so we can complete the loop entirely under our own power.
We know the Stevens to Plummer part well. Any important things to know or route finding beta on the Eagle to Plummer section?
jhalz - Aug 26, 2003 9:06 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Worth it?We took 2 days, a pretty full 2 days. Water is pretty scarce up there and you'll spend a bit of time looking for it. The traverse past Plummer involves some route finding. When you look at Wahpenayo follow Beckey' route description to a "T" and you'll save time, even though you may not think so. I personally don't think it a 1 day traverse is something I could or would even want to do.
darinchadwick - Aug 26, 2003 10:09 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Worth it?Could you check out my Tatoosh Traverse route on the Pinnacle Peak page? I only did it from Stevens to Plummer, because we got stormed off. If you could add from Plummer to Eagle peak, that would be great. Let me know of any errors, since your memory is obviously fresher than mine.
cluck - Sep 8, 2003 9:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Worth it?Started at 4:30AM Saturday morning at Eagle Peak trailhead. Climbed Eagle, Chuta, Wapenayo, Lane, Denman, Plummer, Pinnacle, Castle, Foss (not named on some maps but shown only as 6524'), Boundary and Unicorn. Looked at Stevens and decided it was getting dark and we were too tired. Exited Snow Lake trail and got to the trail head in 18 hours and 37 minutes. After a rest and some Red Bull, pulled our stashed mountain bikes out of the weeds and road back to Longmire. Completed the traverse/loop in about 20 hours (around midnight). 11 named peaks, over 10K in verticle and some rough off trail miles = tired body and sore muscles
rpc - Aug 25, 2003 12:36 pm - Hasn't voted
missed itoops, missed Martin's response when I posted mine......man, telepathy at work here because our responses seem identical.
Enjoy the SEWS Jason.
Radek
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