South Buttress route. Black...

South Buttress route. Black dots are belay ledges. Note: The beginning of this route in this picture is different (not harder) than in Kelsey's guide. Kelsey's route starts more to the right of our route, closer to where the East Ledges Route begins. The last dot is the last of the technical section and the start of the summit scramble. Most leave their ropes and gear at the beginning of the scramble since the first rap is on a ledge to the climber's right of there. If you do the 5.8 version of the K, you will see the first rap station as you finish the pitch. If you do the 5.6 variation, you will have to look hard for the station. It is located on a ledge to the climber's right of the top of P5. It's actually about 10 ft below the ledge requiring a somewhat exposed downclimb to get to it. The second rap is at the dot where P5 begins. Throw your rope to the left (east) and do a double-rope rap to the P3 belay ledge. Rap from there to the P1 belay ledge. It's a scramble down from there.

Click here for my website route description and route photo.