perfect conditions and fair weather made this one of my most favorite climbs of a mountaineering training I attended in 1999.
Had been waiting all season for especially favorable conditions and a stellar weather forecast. I wouldn't want to be near this mountain in a winter storm. Serious stuff. We roped up at 13,400 ft for the couloirs and simulclimbed the majority of of the way to the summit with an occasional anchored/belayed section. The couloir crossover made for a spicy crux. Rapped the crux and then did two 70 meter raps back down the couloir in the dark. My toughest winter summit to date. Grueling but rewarding.
Our approach was from Cottonwood Creek. Its tough terrain to navigate, especially with a large overnight pack BUT its infinitely easier and safer than trying to climb to Broken Hand Pass from South Colony Lakes in winter as avalanches are a huge concern there on the steep, north facing slope.
Climbed this perfect couloir with Tim and Ben. Tim led the whole way and was practically running up it!
I can imagine this climb is easier with snow in it than when its full of scree. But the approach from the E sure is a slog during prime season. Anyone who finds a good approach from the west might earn kudos. Give it a go, lots of fun on a well-respected 14er!