South Face, Stanley-Burgner

Leading the sixth and crux pitch of Stanley-Burgner route (III 5.9+) on south face of Prusik. I think the climbing looks more aesthetic than it actually is (grunt). Photo taken June 25, 2006.


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Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Jun 27, 2006 4:34 pm - Voted 10/10


Looks like a sweet pitch! Nice job on the climb Radek and Shirley. Great beta and pics.


rpc - Jun 27, 2006 5:49 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Nice!

Thank you very much Martin.
Maybe I'm too old and jaded, but I did not find this route as "classic" as some suggest. This corner was not that fun either - ledgy, weird cracks (from none to huge OW's) and I ran out of gear. The best pich IMHO was pitch 1 (5.8 wide crack) and the 5.9 flaring squeeze chimney (fun, fun, fun!! in the Aries kinda way :)

did you manage to get out last weekend?

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Jun 27, 2006 6:30 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Nice!

Interesting. Enjoying your pics. How was the hike? Lots of windfall still?

A good friend of ours got married in Spokane this weekend so we went there. Looking forward to enjoying this nice weather in the mountains over the long weekend.


rpc - Jun 27, 2006 6:42 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Nice!

Thanks man. Hike was OK (in/out via Snow Lks.) - glad I don't have to do it again for a long while :)

Not much downed trees at all actually. Small patches of snow above Snow Lakes (going fast). Plenty of dry slabs to choose from at Lk. Viviane for camping. Given last wknd's temps, ax/crampons were a waste (postholing on n. side on the descent).

jlag - Jun 27, 2006 7:11 pm - Hasn't voted

nice work

nice job Radek, good route with great weather. Keep it up and call me anytime your in the area.


rpc - Jun 28, 2006 12:26 am - Hasn't voted

Re: nice work

Thank you Josh - appreciate the good word. Would be cool to get together for some cragging at Smith come fall. Let me know if you're ever up here in PDX area.


jtschanz - Jun 27, 2006 11:22 pm - Voted 10/10

You are old and jaded!

Either that, or you climb in Utah too much. Haydar has the same disease. The pitch looks cool to me :)


rpc - Jun 28, 2006 12:28 am - Hasn't voted

Re: You are old and jaded!

Thanks Jim :)
It LOOKS cool till you get on it IMHO. It goes something like: no crack to OW to bulge with finger cracks to no crack stem to OW to thin hands.


rpc - Jun 28, 2006 12:29 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Great looking peak

Thank you for stopping by and the kind word Craig. High quality granite on this one in a beautiful alpine setting - think you'd like it (not sure if there are any A3+ lines on it though :)

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