Can see why its in Roper's 50 Classics! One of the most enjoyable rock climbs I've done. Had three on a rope for this so we had to move really fast.
10 pitches of mostly-sustained, varied goodness. Trip report.
Climbed South Face with approach from the west with Bryan B. Great climb, and bushwhack up Charlotte creek is worthy. We simul climbed first 4 pitches. I got to lead The Slot pitch and the Furrows which I am really happy about. The Slot was probably the funnest 5.8 pitch I did anywhere, go over a roof, use a crack, and cool face features on the right. Awesome climb. Although some sections have really interesting pro sections.
A spectacular and sustained route... short daylight and 8 hours on the climb meant much thrashing through bushes in the dark on approach and descent. Recommend hiking the approach in daylight!
Climbed with Sper Forjan on a beautiful day with perfect climbing conditions. We simul-climbed the first 5 pitches and followed the supertopo the rest of the way. Beautifull granite with great views from the top. Highly recommend the campsite at 10,140'
Fantabulous route! Definitely a repeatable route
Followed the beta from Supertopo...spot on! (except for a small section marked on the last pitch of the topo....email'd Mac). Even the approach in from the east was pretty easy. Dunno what all the fuss is about having a hard time finding the campsite near 10K by the descent gully. Sweet spot! Put this route on my Top 5 list!!
With several pitches of simul-climbing, Dave and I enjoyed Charlotte's beautifully crafted granite and great views of Kings Cyn. A bit of wind in the afternoon, otherwise perfect weather found us loving the shit out of this peak!
climbed with bighornmonkey and shirley lam as part of the Sierra Crossing.
Started from Road's end in Kings Canyon NP at 3:30am, started the technical climb at 10:30am. Our party of 3 completed the climb in a little more than 8 hours (summited at 7:00pm). We had the route to ourselves. Decended back to the base via the class 3 north ridge, staying on skier's left going down the gully.
Next day we completed the Sierra traverse (about 10-12 more miles) ending up in Onion Valley via Kearsage Pass.
We had another group traversing the Sierras from East to West so we met near Charlotte Dome on Saturday evening and traded car keys.
A long day and managed to get ourselves quite lost and off route, did the crux pitch, but in the end with bad weather decided to retreat off. 7 exciting abseils off!
Stew Patrignani, Roy Berke and myself climbed the South face on Saturday. We slept at Charlotte lake, which made the aproach to start the climb rather long (three miles). The climbing went well. The so called 'friction pitch' is pretty run out, just like the McNamara description says. Timid leaders should be forewarned. A pleasant surprise, was the fact that the last pitch described by McNamara was easy class five ( not 5.7 or 8) and when you turn the corner you are practically on top. A reasonable scramble got us back down to start the long walk back to camp. Overall it was a long but satisfying day for us.
Muttering off about our difficulty getting permits for a Sat-Sun climb, Alex A. and I decided to climb the South Face as a dayhike. Arrived at Roads End at 1am. 2 hours of sleep later, we started off on trail at 3:15. Base of the climb at 9am. Great climbing throughout the day - absolutely the most memorable climb I've done. Topped out at 8pm, darkness racing, so we decided to bivy at a sweet spot just below the summit rocks and descended the 4th class rock and 5.8 brush the next day.
Another awesome birthday route. I got to lead the whole thing for 2 of my friends. Great camp at Charlotte Lake, lots of fish!
Climbed with Kristina. We soloed up the first 5 pitches until the ledge below the Slot, where two parties were having route finding problems. We did the rest of the climb in 5 pitches. Not sure we were on the classic route much of the time but the climbing was fun, not very hard, and the views were great. We descended the slabs skier's right, which was probably a mistake because it was very steep and slow going. The approach from the east wasn't too bad but the final two hours of bush whacking from our camp to the base of the climb sucked.