I climbed the route today. It is a really nice route and I enjoyed it a lot.
Some minor comments on the page; The pegs which are mentioned in the guidebook are in place, in the whole route we found over 10 pegs. Especially in the part above the "kohlenband" these should be treated with care as they do not always show the correct way. A row of pegs led into terrain with large, loose rocks.
The green-coloured block at the Arbenridge is marked with a stoneman. This is quite convenient in finding the correct descent route. As far as I saw, all the abseils were on webbings with a maillot rapide as the abseils at the ENE-ridge.
we (me and the author) did find the row of pegs above the kohlenband, but we didn't believe that this was the correct route. after downclimbing this stretch we traversed more to the right and continued through the snow couloir.
I recall finding one peg some pitches below the red pillar, it was there that we accidentally got off the route.
what I would like to know: did you find any pegs on the red pillar itself?
I have to admit that I do not exactly what you mean with the red pillar, but what I know is that in the first part of the route we found the first pegs somewhat below the grey cleft. In the cleft we found some additional pegs and on the slabs as well. Then there was shortly nothing untill the tricky part above the "kohlenband". I agree with you that following the couloir is the best option from this point onwards. Nevertheless there is quite some loose rock and rockfall possible from parties climbing the ENE-ridge.
mvs - Nov 6, 2008 3:43 pm - Voted 10/10
super impressiveI am really impressed with this page! I definitely want to use it next year because this route is high on my list. Thanks!
wouterdev - Mar 31, 2009 4:28 pm - Voted 10/10
....these photos look very familiar to me. nice site!
RoyD - Aug 30, 2009 6:41 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice pageHi,
I climbed the route today. It is a really nice route and I enjoyed it a lot.
Some minor comments on the page; The pegs which are mentioned in the guidebook are in place, in the whole route we found over 10 pegs. Especially in the part above the "kohlenband" these should be treated with care as they do not always show the correct way. A row of pegs led into terrain with large, loose rocks.
The green-coloured block at the Arbenridge is marked with a stoneman. This is quite convenient in finding the correct descent route. As far as I saw, all the abseils were on webbings with a maillot rapide as the abseils at the ENE-ridge.
Groet,
Roy
wouterdev - Nov 19, 2009 7:19 am - Voted 10/10
hi roywe (me and the author) did find the row of pegs above the kohlenband, but we didn't believe that this was the correct route. after downclimbing this stretch we traversed more to the right and continued through the snow couloir.
I recall finding one peg some pitches below the red pillar, it was there that we accidentally got off the route.
what I would like to know: did you find any pegs on the red pillar itself?
cheers
RoyD - Nov 20, 2009 4:44 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: hi royI have to admit that I do not exactly what you mean with the red pillar, but what I know is that in the first part of the route we found the first pegs somewhat below the grey cleft. In the cleft we found some additional pegs and on the slabs as well. Then there was shortly nothing untill the tricky part above the "kohlenband". I agree with you that following the couloir is the best option from this point onwards. Nevertheless there is quite some loose rock and rockfall possible from parties climbing the ENE-ridge.
Cheers