Climbed a variant that limited mixed climbing to one short pitch. It is now possible to cross the bergschrund significantly more left of the red line drawn in the route image. We crossed the first rock band by climbing directly upwards, then moved left on solid snow/ice to hug the arete. We then passed the second rock band in the couloir immediately right of the arete and arrived at the snow field which lead us to the normal route on the SE face.
We climbed a variant that took us through the right edge of the two rock bands near the normal route. The lower rock band was moderate, but difficult to protect due to the snow conditions whereas the upper rock band yielded 400 feet of excellent mixed climbing (~M5) on good gear.