Excellent climb on a great day.
good times with Seth and Abbot
We were off route for the first pitch and had to make some awkward 5.9 moves. We combined several of the upper pitches and finished the climb in 5 rather than 7. Only two rappels while descending the South Arete.
With Matt K. The 5.9 pitch after the roof was hard. Linked with the Boving route on N.E.W.
Parties were turned away from the south arete, it was clogged this labor day weekend, but no other parties Sunday on sw buttress. Some memorable moves and more sustained climbing than the south arete
The goats were a bit too close for comfort at the base of the climb. We hung our packs and shoes on the tree so that they wouldn't be tempted to munch on them.
Otherwise, super fun climb on a beautiful day. You definitely need a #5 Camalot or equivalent for crack on the 2nd pitch and the Bear Hug pitch. Also, no snow on the approach - no need to shlep the ice axe or crampons ;)
Made it up the SW rib twice this week. First time was the traverse in from the gully, second time with direct start on west face. Good overall route.
Rain + lichen + slab = WATCH ME! Thank goodness and Dave Kratsch I wasn't leading.
We climbed the SW Rib after climbing the arête. We started up at 3:30 and chose the couloir start to skip the first two pitches. It took us about 5 1/2 hours round trip and we walked out in the dark. The white flake, bear hug, and a couple of individual moves were great. Long but fun day.
Lots of fun, the crux pitch was an awesome 5.10 lie back, highly recommended for those seeking something a little more interesting than the standard.
Also, looks like the alpine high season is coming to a close. We had snow, and it was really cold in the morning and in the shaded areas of the climb.
Beautiful area but the climbing was not as sustained as numerous trip reports make it out to be. Still a very fun outing in an outrageously gorgeous area.
A good day on SEWS. Three of the pitches are excellent. Easy descent. The .10b variation is really fun too. See our TR and pics here.
I had the opportunity to share leads with the world renowned Haydar Kutuk. I love friction climbing and noticed slab pitch got spicy in a couple spots (with 20+ feet of rope out). I found so positive knubs down to the right to over come the crux.