Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m. | Trad Climbing in Ermioni (Greece)

Overview

“Souzaki Mouzaki” (V-, 50 m.) first ascent was made on 01/05/2021 by Olympus Mountaineering, D. Nakos and  el_houdal. The route follows the rock formation which is located east from Kouverta beach of Ermioni, and specifically just above the Profitis Elias of Mouzaki chapel. 

The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional multipitch climbing with only two pitches length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.

Getting There

Only 10 minutes drive from the town of Ermioni and 7.8 km to reach the Profitis Elias chapel where we can park the car. Starting from Ermioni we head west towards Kranidi and at 2.7km we turn left following the coastal road that leads to Kouverta beach.  

From there we follow the road to Profitis Elias chapel where we park the car. From the parking spot, and move towards the north for 5 minutes following the goat trail until we will reach the beginning of the route on this point:  37.352217, 23.253646

Route Description

See complete route description here: https://olympusmountaineering.com/2021/05/02/souzaki-mouzaki-v-uiaa-50-m-climbing-in-kouverta-beach-ermioni/

R0 – R1 | V- UIAA – 20 m.

The route starts with the first pitch (20 m.) right from the base of the west side of the rock (37.352217, 23.253646).

The first part of this pitch is a nice slab and actually is also the crux of the route with about 10 m. of vertical climb UIAA V-. This first part seems good to be protected, but while climbing, the lead climbers needs some extra effort in order to protect the crux of the route. The crux, is a vertical slab with good hand holds, but there is need of good footwork. Then, the route continues through the ridge with a UIAA III degree passage and we climb up up to a ledge where we belay. 

Make a belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette and an additional nut or friend on an obvious boulder. The belay position is very good and comfortable.

R1 – R2 | IV UIAA – 30 m.

The second pitch (30 m.), starts with an easy slab of UIAA IV and we place the first good protection (nut) on a solid boulder (on our left side). As soon we reach the top of the slab, we follow the ridge till an obvious tower. As soon we reach the base of the tower, we place some gear and we traverse the tower from the right side. On that point we have two moves where we are have to pay attention, due to the exposure of that part of the climb. 

As soon we overcome the tower (from the right side), we follow again the ridge for about 10 meters of about UIAA III. We can belay with two large slings or kevlar cordelette on two large boulders. The belay position is good, very comfortable and with a unique view towards the Kouverta Beach and the town of Ermioni.

From R2, we can also clearly see the following areas of climbing interest:

• Katafyki Gorge
• Pillars of the Wind
• Mount Didimo
• “Monsters of the Wind” Mount Ortholithi
• “The long run” Mount Ortholithi
• Castle Thermisia
• Dardiza Crag

Essential Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:

• Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
• The North Face Vert 27 lt. Back pack
• 5 lanyards 60 cm
• 1 lanyard 120 cm
• 4 locking carabiners
• 1 HMS carabiner
• Mammut Ophir Harness
• Simond Climbing shoes
• BD HotWire Quickdraws
• Alpine Quickdraws
• Cordelette for prusik
• 2 x 60 m. rope
• 4 carabiners
• Reverso
• 1.5 lt of Water
• 1 energy bar
• Friends / Camalots
• Rock Nuts

External Links

https://olympusmountaineering.com/2021/05/02/souzaki-mouzaki-v-uiaa-50-m-climbing-in-kouverta-beach-ermioni/