07/17/18 with Ryan Stadheim
Perfect summer day. Approached from Cut Bank. Brought and used 30m rope for rappel - would bring 50m if/when we do it again! Incredible summit views. Bring plenty of water!
We climbed Split Mountain from the Atlantic Creek Campground, crossing over Triple Divide Pass on the way. However, the basin north of Norris Mountain would make a better and outstanding camp spot. From Atlantic Creek Campground the climb was about 12 miles roundtrip with 5,800' total gain.
From the basin it is steep but easy going to Split's south ridge and eventually, with a bit more 3rd class, to the eastern base of the widest chimney (split) seen from Triple Divide Pass. We scrambled up that slot and about 30-40 feet down the other (west) side. From there we traversed north maybe 50 feet to the narrower gulley/chimney that separates Split Mountain's summit block. We ascended that gulley to a good belay (sling on large chockstone) at the top of the gulley; the pitch was wet with a bit of snow, solid 4th class. Facing north from the belay there is a crack and ledge system several feet to climber's left (west). Using that system about ten feet of 3rd/4th class climbing leads to easy ground and the north (higher) summit.
There's a common rappel from a large rock at the southeast corner of the summit; we found fresh slings. One rappel on a 60m rope (plenty to spare) put us back at the eastern side of the final chimney/gulley we climbed a short walk north of gear we left at the initial widest chimney.
2012 - w/ Xenja Poljakowa.
Climbed Razoredge Mt. Day 1, climbed Triple Divide, Norris, Peak 7912 and Split on Day 2, followed by a long hike back around Norris and down to Cut Bank campground from Triple Divide Pass. The technical finish on Split was quite a bit of fun.
Nice climb, should have left the rope at home.
2007 with Ron and April from Red Eagle Lake
1982 with Bill from Norris Traverse
Nice little technical finish.
Climbed with Vern Ingraham from Cut Bank across Triple Divide pass as a day hike