Stan's Lead (5.5)

This is the lower half of the 5.5 Stan's Lead climb. Go left up the ramp and work your way up to the shadowed area above it (you can also start a few yards further downstream, which is left here), the pulling around/through of which is one of the climb's two crux moves. The wall gets smooth and slippery there, and the alternate approach requires going left around to the upper end of the ramp the overhang while facing an awkward move with serious exposure.

Rope is definitely smart to use on this route, but I have done this free solo. It's an easy 5.5, in my opinion, and not as hard as some more-exposed 5.3 routes at Great Falls.

Great Falls, VA-- April 2007


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