Here is the standard route for this great desert mountaineering adverture. This route doesn't require dangerous free climbing that destroys the rock either. Still one should have a good topo map, route finding skills, and some rock climbing experience to make this fun and enjoyable.
Take the scenic road into Capitol Reef NP to the Grand Wash TH.
This route is listed in Micheal Kelsey's, "Canyon Guide to the Colorado Plateau". Although vague it does the job.
Start at the parking lot inside the park for Grand Wash. Go down canyon. .3 miles you will see the Cassidy Arch trail on your right. Hike 150 meters down and look for a hiker trail cutting up and west on the south slopes. Follow carins if you'd like, theres lots of routes there and use the one you like. Get to the highest bench and traverse on the kayente layer into bear canyon. Once in Bear canyon look west for a trail that goes up through ceders and boulders. Get as high as possible and look for a trail to the left (north east) and follow a unlikely wrap around into some gulchs to the next bench layer. From there rim walk 3 points and cross 2 large drainages. On the 3rd drainage, go up to a 10 wall. Once on top climb the steep drainage to the right. Follow the ridge south to the nipple. The nipple ain't that bad. Nothing harder than the approach. Low 5th at the most, if its harder your off route. The north west of Ferns is the easist.
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