Stemming while Reaching for a Jam

Our 'crag neighbors' gave me a belay on this rope they setup on a fun 10c called 'Et tu Brutus'with lots of stemming and arm jamming. Great fun at Shelf Road.

Comments

Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-5 of 5
rpc

rpc - May 4, 2007 11:13 am - Voted 10/10

2 bolts next to #3 camalot crack?

is that common practice in that area? Is that limestone & if so, is that the reason?
Nice shot BTW.

Dan Dalton

Dan Dalton - May 5, 2007 10:07 am - Hasn't voted

Re: 2 bolts next to #3 camalot crack?

Yeah, it is pretty wierd here. I came and was a little disgusted by how many cracks have been bolted. This is a really fun 10d called Cactus Cliff Addict. The last 30 feet or so is on faceholds on the wall above the crack that would be difficult to protect with gear.

You are correct, this is limestone and can be a little chossy, but the reason everything here is bolted is due to tradition. This area arose early 1980 and was well developed by people such as Goddard who spent a lot of time on the bolted limestones of France.

Since this area is a pure sport area, I don't mind it too much anymore, you will never see bolts getting chopped here.

Thanks for the comment hope that clarifies things a little,

Dan

rpc

rpc - May 7, 2007 1:28 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: 2 bolts next to #3 camalot crack?

thanks Dan. Nice TR BTW.

MTW

MTW - Jul 27, 2007 12:17 pm - Voted 10/10

Shelf Road

is awesome. I lived in CO Springs last summer and loved climbing there.

Dan Dalton

Dan Dalton - Jul 28, 2007 10:33 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Shelf Road

Yeah, it is pretty much my limestone climbing mecca other than Rifle.

Dan

Viewing: 1-5 of 5