With Jck (Jacek). Very long route with great Allalinhorn and Rimpfischhorn faces views. Nasty melted glacier with tricky crevesses. Cold wind on the top. Good route for skis.
Climbed the route with Radek ( brade ). Very long. Tricky crevasses and strong wind. Made some mistakes in route-finding.
White out, again but summit this time. Turned back previous evening, only metres from the summit!
We came from Saas Fee via Britanniahütte and carried a lot of bivac-equipement (tent, stove, mattress, sleepingbag, food) up to the flat glacier at around 3400meters above sealevel. After a very cold night with temperatures down below -25 deg. celsius we reached the summit using ski.
We used ski to go down all the way to Saas Fee (about 2600 meters of altitude including the re-elevation before Britanniahütte)
Not very advisable mountain without acclimatisation, because it´s a very long way up there. Something I don´t have to do a second time, because the route is not very varied and rather boring.
We started from the Britannia hutte and walked as the first group accros the glacier through undisturbed snow, beautifull! When we were nearing Adler pas the snow got knee-deep, the wind statted to increase and cloubs came up. Eventually we turned around at approx 1 hour from the summit. We had quite some difficulty of finding our trail back since it had (almost) been blown away by the fierce winds, but we made it back to the hut. Perhaps we should have turned around earlier. Next year I might set up camp at the Allalin pas to climb the beautifull NNW (not WNW) ridge of Strahlhorn and also climb Rimpfischorn. Note that the glacial trip from the Britannia hutte is very long, tedious and boring. Only the last hour of climbing (from the Adler pass to summit) is interesting. Snow covering the glacier is quite thin in late summer, be carefull, the snow covering crevasses collapsed a couple of times.
A beautiful day. It is a very long walk.
The glacier was very soft on the way back forming a labyrinth of crevasses. Don't be there too late in the afternoon.
Of a party of three twoo reached the top under heavy conditions due to deep snow from before Adlerpass (about 40 cm). It was a window of good weather after three days of light snowing at that heights. From Brittaniahütte is, actually, a too long walk already, and it became even longer walking back the glacier at the late afternoon, when the snow of the lower part was too soft to hold our weight (aprox. 30 cm).
Luckily, weather was fine and there was no wind.
On skis. Great conditions and good weather. Descent back to Britannia hut for an attempt on Rimpfischhorn the day after.
from Britannia hut to Adlerpass, Strahlhorn and going down by ski to Zermatt
Long but beautiful way up to Adlerpass, from there short climb to summit. We (Gust, Stef, Tim and Bjorn) were alone on the summit and had a white-out, so no view and a scary descent.
I'm walking... and I'm still walking...
Very windy on summit ridge, but perfect views to Matterhorn / Weisshorn / Lyskamm / Monte Rosa... :-)
Adlerpass a bit dicy, but almost completely possible on skis. Easy snow walk from the pass to the summit. Some crevass danger, not recommended alone. Of course my partner was too pooped to go on, so I completed it alone. Some minor, easy scrambling on the somewhat exposed summit ridge. Arrived very late, quickly did a U-turn after one picture. Wrong turn on the way to the Britannia Hut cost me what little daylight was left, arrived at 7:30 PM in the middle of dinner, in near complete darkness. Not a perfect ascent, but done.
The walk from Britannia hut to Fluchtpass was easy, then the route got steeper and clouds covered us. As beginners, we needed 4.5 hours from Fluchtpass to the summit. This route is much more interesting than the normal "highway", but it requires some experience.
It was a nice walk (about 10 km) and a perfect view. In the midday very very hot. But the descent on Snowboard was fabulous!!!!!!
What can I say? A rather long trip on snow and ice, which isn't that exciting. But anyway, it always gives a great feeling climbing a fourthousand meter summit, and when somebody would ask me to climb Strahlhorn again, I would not hesitate. Although I would consider a different approach.
Nevertheless, climbing is always fun!
we found good conditions and were able to go with ski until 20 m beneath the summit. The Allalin glacier has arctic dimensions so we felt being so small on this long and flat walk to th Adlerpass. No good sight but warm and no wind on the summit. This was my first 4000 m-peak climbed with ski and my 200th mountain climbed higher than 3000 m.
The weather wasn't really cooperative (there had been about 3 to 4cm of fresh powder from just beneath the Adlerpass the night before). So we were in a hurry. But nevertheless, it was a great feeling to stand on top, in the middle of all those giants. We could see them all, despite the clouds: Monte Rosa, Lyskam,Castor,Polux,... All the way to Zinalrothorn, and then those that are a bit closer: Rimpfisch, Allalin, Mischabel. And all with sort of a strange yellow glow on them, because of the bad weather that was preparing for the afternoon. But we were there at about 9 AM, so no problems on the way back! And it's true: it is a very long trip!
A rather boring climb with a looong walk over the glacier. Would have been an enjoyable ski tour in the spring.
Britannia hut instead was very comfortable place to stay at!
With snowshoes from Britannia hut. Very crowded at the top.