Sunrise on East Lovenia (13,037)

First glance at the peak is a bit intimidating. Actually the NW facing aren't as steep as it seems in this picture ... but nonetheless it impressed me enough to seek an alternative ascent route on the "back side" of the ridge.

10/8/2008 8:30 am

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Scott

Scott - Oct 14, 2008 11:31 pm - Hasn't voted

Which route?

Which route did you summit East Lovenia by?

Anyway, athough some of the 12ers are harder I considered East Lovenia to be the hardest of the Utah 13ers. I'm curious which route others have taken.

Dmitry Pruss

Dmitry Pruss - Oct 15, 2008 8:37 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Which route?

Up East Face and out by the ridge connecting with Main Lovenia. I agree about its being technically the hardest for me, and I also wonder if I missed something easier which the others may have found. What exactly does Davide Rose suggest there? I couldn't locate his guidebook around the house :)
In addition to class 5 elements on both routes, it's also physically long too. It seems that your Lovenia page overestimates one-way distance by about a mile, but it still adds to a 25-miler day!

Scott

Scott - Oct 15, 2008 8:48 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Which route?

What exactly does Davide Rose suggest there?

About the same as you did coming up from the NE/East Face.

We actually zig-zagged up the NW face and came down the connecting ridge with Lovenia. Not much exposure or technical obstacles, but lots of loose scree.

Dmitry Pruss

Dmitry Pruss - Oct 15, 2008 9:57 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Which route?

Thanks Scott. This NNW face had the most snow covering the unknown-quality footholds, so I wasn't too excited about heading there! And you say, "connecting ridge with Lovenia", did you follow it all the way or just to the nearest low point? I had some trouble routefinding beyond the first col, ended up backtracking here and there and having more unexpected class 5 fun...

Scott

Scott - Oct 17, 2008 8:57 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Which route?

I did most of the ridge but since I had already been on the summit of Lovenia we bypassed it in order to have more time to check out some different routes.

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