SW Chute on Disappointment

This is the Southwest Chute on the west side of Disappointment Peak. There's one gully between the SW Chute and the Farquhar Route (which climbs Middle Palisade). It's easy to identify the gully by the distinctive V-shaped quart in the rock. The SW Chute route is similar to the Farquhar Route in that it is full of loose rock. When I climbed it, I didn't notice much general rock fall (this was late Sept, before any snows), but there was much climber-generated rock fall.

There are 4 or 5 chockstone sections that require low-5th class climbing, with generally loose and sandy rock. Secor calls this 4th class, yet recommends a rope. I saw rappel stations above most of the difficult sections. Since I had no rope, I soloed up and down these sections, and I found it sketchy. I had done the traverse from Thunderbolt to Sill the day before, also without rope, and I would say that I was much, much less comfortable soloing the SW Chute route. So, my suggestion is to heed Secor's advice and bring a rope! A 30 meter rope would be plenty, with some extra webbing to leave behind because some rappel stations are missing or have very old webbing.

Above the chockstone sections, take the left-fork of the gully. The angle is much less steep here, and the climbing is class 2+ or 3-. You'll quickly reach the notch just a few hundred feet below the summit; from here to the summit is class 3 to class 5, depending on how direct a route you take.


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