SW-ridge ("Stuedlgrat") Climber's Log

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Kostěj - Apr 26, 2022 3:20 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2013

Stüdlgrat  Sucess!

First ascent of our summer week trilogy Glockner-Ortler-Weisshorn

Houdy - Jul 2, 2019 2:21 am Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2019

Studlgrat mit Bivak  Sucess!

Climbed from parkplatz at lucknerhouse (started at 7 am), 2 hours to Studlhutte. We did not take Teichnitzkees glacier, but directly Luisengrat and Luisenkopf. It tooked more time, but was fun. At 7 pm. we climbed the top. All day without ANY cloud :) We stayed overnight at the top of Austria!


luciezr - Aug 29, 2018 5:14 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2018

Nice climb :-)  Sucess!

both the rock and the glacier in good conditions



ggorzki - Feb 19, 2018 10:59 pm Date Climbed: Apr 9, 2017

Beautiful!  Sucess!

Very good conditions, in a second sunny day after some heavy snow. Team of 2+2. No crowd on the route. Frühstückplatz reached after 3.5h, summit 8h later. Perfect view on the top.


bledl - Aug 22, 2012 3:33 pm

too much people, way of a via ferrata...

climbed it last sunday. too many people, especially while descending the normal route...and too many guided people who probably never used an ice axe before in their lives. the route is nice, but i did not like all the fixed rope and stuff that turn it into kinda via ferrata. There are a lot of good placements and horns to sling, the whole route would be much more of an experience without ropes, bolts and pieces of steel. But thats just my personal opinion. Climbed up to the "Frühstücksplatz" unroped (fairly easy) then simulclimbing to the top.


marc123 - Aug 6, 2012 4:04 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2009

Beautiful climb  Sucess!

Beautiful climb with nice rock.


rgg - Sep 22, 2011 1:56 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2011

Repeat performance  Sucess!

Climbed with Wilco and local guide from Kals. This is the first alpine route that I have climbed twice now, as I climbed it before back in 2006. From what I remember of that climb, there were much less cables back then.
Nevertheless, this time it was made slightly more difficult by that little bit of fresh snow that had come down the previous evening. It wasn't much, but it sure made those small ledges trickier.
At the start of the climb, the weather was fine, but during the last hour to the summit, it quickly deteriorated. No views anymore. Still, I really like this climb!


mooliczek - May 16, 2011 12:45 am Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2011

Nice!  Sucess!

Perfect weather we had to climb this beautiful route.

Erik Van Genechten

Erik Van Genechten - Mar 8, 2011 2:44 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2007

Third time right  Sucess!

Our third attempt was finally the right one. Finding the right spot to get up the ridge can be a bit harder, but once you get on it, the route is very straightforward and great fun.


selinunte01 - Aug 7, 2009 3:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2000

On a perfect summer day  Sucess!

I climbed this grand arete with two friends. We had to wait often and long because there were very slow parties ahead. Returned to Stüdlhütte after 8.00 p.m.


jck - Aug 19, 2007 9:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2007

Very recommendable!  Sucess!

Climbed with Radek (brade)- see post below. Fantastic route, solid rock, good snow conditions. Very overcrowded- about 50 people climbing the ridge, many parties shouldn't be there. Guides take people who even don't know how to use a rope- horrible (if they are above you try to overcome them as fast as possible!). Spent much time waiting. Very bad snow conditions in Glocknerteil (muddy- never been so filthy), to many people- very dangerous!
Overall- superb but the crowds kill the fun of climbing.


brade - Aug 18, 2007 2:46 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2007

Great Climb!  Sucess!

Climbed with Jck (Jacek) who was leading all the way up. Snow conditions on rout were almost perfect. No visibility on the summit. Stuedl Ridge was on my wish list for a long time. This classic rout is beautiful but overcrowded. We had company of 50(!!!) other people and guides during our climb. Recomend this rout as one of my best ever - it was pleasure.

Jck - Dziekuje za uratowanie zycia.
Jck - Thank you for saving my ass.

uplne jinej martin

uplne jinej martin - Apr 30, 2007 4:41 pm Date Climbed: Apr 6, 2007

Nice snowy Stüdlgrat  Sucess!

It snowed cca 2-3 days before. Stüdlhütte - Frühstückplatz 4h; Frühstückplatz - summit 7h. We climbed together with another pair; about 4/5 we lead the track in the now snow ;-)
Weather: absolutely clean blue sky, but little bit freezy (in the late afternoon I can't operate screw carabiners).

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