Brief overviewThis is a very striking peak
that you can see from Thangboche, Khundi (The Everest Overlook Hotel), Ama Dablam, Pheriche, Dingboche and other vantage points. This peak is not as well travelled as the other peaks in the region. The morning sunrise in particularly beautiful as seen from the Thangboche Monastry to the south-east. This page is under renovation so bare with me while I gather information on its climbing availability. The reason I mention this as in 1986 the last time I was in the area my sherpas told me that this was a peak like many others in Nepal that has some religious signifigance and should not be summited. But...information seems to indicate that this is false. The peak has been summited.
Information provided by Nelson.
John Roskelley did a severe climb on its north face in 1989. Check out The Last Days. Note his alternate spelling, Tawoche, which I have often seen.
I used this spelling due that is how it is spelt in my guide book. I have seen other spellings in other guides.
Additional comments from Fred.
Note that there is not only a difference in the spelling of the name of the peak, but also in the elevation.
The peak climbed by Roskelley & Lowe was certainly the one on the left in the signature photo.
To get to Nepal you will have to fly from either India, Thailand or Singapore.
To get to New Delhi India try (there are many others).
Royal Air Nepal
Once you get to Katmandu you will hav e basically two options: 1 - Fly on Royal Air Nepal's Twin Otter flights to Lukla. A small air strip about eight to ten days from Taboche Base Camp 1 hour flight approx. 2 - Take a local bus, Mini Bus hired by you or your Sherpa provider to Jiri. This is a small village at the end of the road. From here it is about a 14-16 day trek to the Kumbu region. If you have the time do the walk. For three reasons: 1 - You will have a chance to walk through one of t he most lush and beautiful lowland areas in Nepal. This is an area that a lot of trekkers miss when flying to Lukla. You will also cross over two high passes with excellent views in all directions. 2 - By taking 2 weeks to arrive in the Khumbu are and having already crossed over two high passes you will be better acclimitized once you arrive in the high peaks area. You will enjoy this more as you will be huffing and puffing less. 3 - You will be following the route taken by most of the early expeditions. There is a lot of history along that path, why not soak it up. You will also have the bragging rights that you did the same route as they in years gone by. Flying is fast and that has its advantages. But if you have ever been at Lukla after several days of no flights after bad weather you will understand this. (Trekkers fighting over seats to make their connecting flights home)
Seen from Dugla ( on way to Everest from the South face). The Basecamp is about 5200m high. Flying into Lukla 9,350 ft.: (Note walking times are approximate a lot will depend on how you acclimitize.) Slowly decend to Phakding 8,700 ft. about 2 hr walk from Lukla, you will probably overnight here . The next morning after about 2-3 hours you wil l pass through Jorsale 9,100 ft. Here is where you will pay a fee and enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Parkand. You will then continue for another 2-3 hours up hill to the main Village of Namche Bazaar 11,300 ft. This is quite an elevation gain e specially for those who have flown in. You should rest here one to two days, doing small side trips ect. to acclimitize. The next day will take you through Shyangboche 11,800 ft. (approx) then onto the village of Khunde 12,600 ft. then onto Khumjung 12,400 ft. then you decend to near the river crossing at 10,650 ft. Cross over at Pungo Tenga. Then it is uphill for two hours to Tengboche. This is another good rest spot. The following day continue east out of the settlement and down 1.5 hours to Pangboche 12,800 ft. (keep right). Continue for 1.5 hours till you reach a fork in the trail. Go left down to the river and cross over and uphill to the village of Pheriche (13,950 ft.). Stop here for the night. Here there is a Hospital for treating altitude illnesses. I have no information on how to get to the basecamp from this point. You will have to cross back South over the river.
Yes there are permits required. These can be arranged by yourself or the firm that you hire to support your team. There is also an entry visa to Nepal.
The below can be of help.
The General Secretary,
Nepal Mountaineering Association
Post Box No. 1435,
When To Climb
Pre-monson season ( April-May) or Post-Monson season (September-October)
Information from Damien G. (31-08-08)
Taweche/Taboche was first climbed illegally back in the 70s by a French team (Seigneur?) the got in some trouble for it. The Roskelley/Lowe route was on the East face, not north, and is the narrow shaded steepe face in the pic in your Brief Overview section. Pat Littlejohn and Mick Fowler climbed the NE buttress back in the 90s, Ueli Steck soloed the SE face in 2005 and an American team made a winter ascent in Feb 07 of a spur on the SE side. Probably more ascents, these are just the main ones. AAJ Online should sort the details.
If you are not able to be on an Official Expedition try one of these guided ascents.
Alpine Ascents International
Helping the Sherpa communityThere are several organizations dedicated to helping the Sherpa community. Here are just two. Should you wish to contribute to this worthwhile cause contact either of the following organizations though the information below.
The Sir Edmond Hillary Foundation
222 Jarvis Street
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
The American Himalayan Foundation
The American Himalayan Foundation
909 Montgomery Street, suite 400
San Francisco CA 94133
Telephone (415) 288-7245
Fax (415) 434-3130
Altitude illnessesYou should be prepared for the possible onset of altitude sickness. High altitudes are stressful on the body, and lack of oxygen up high can produce slightly debilitating effects, such as fatigue, headaches, shortness of breath, loss of appetite, nausea, and a drunken gait. Altitude sickness generally doesn't occur below 10,000 feet, but people have suffered its symptoms lower than 8,000 feet.
There's not much you can do to prevent this problem, but there are ways of alleviating its effects. The key to d oing this is simple: take it easy. Take a day or two before beginning the walk in to acclimatize yourself to the elevation. Go at your own pace, and don't take chances. Even if you're in excellent shape, don't be fooled. The lack of oxygen at such high altitudes can definitely throw your lungs for a loop. Walk at a comfortable, slow pace and don't carry too much weight. Make sure to hydrate yourself regularly, drinking 4 to 5 liters (nalgene bottles) of water per day; On some climbs camelbacks can be mo un tain companions because of their convenient water portability. The only problem being keeping the nozzle clean, I find they can get gross and need constant cleaning. My self I attach a 1 litre Nalgene bottle to each side of my backpack so that I can re ach them easily without removing my pack. These solutions would have to be modified to suit the weather and conditions of climbing Everest. Bottles would have to be insulated and the tube from the camelback could tend to freeze up. Taking antioxidant v ita min s (A, C, and E) also helps reduce the effects of high altitudes. Of course working out before you go is another great preventative measure. While this doesn?t guarantee an easier time when up high, it can enhance your lungs' ability to cope with the challenges of high elevations.
Try to spread out your ascent over a period of two or three days to give your body more time to adapt. Play by the "climb-high, sleep-low" theory of ascent: go on a short hike to a higher elevation, then return to the (lower) elevation at which you?ll sleep.
Physical fitness, as mentioned above, is no guarantee against developing altitude sickness. Past excursions to high elevations without developing symptoms is similarly no guarantee against getting sick. There's no way to p redict who is more susceptible to altitude sickness, although climbers who overexert themselves, those who are panting or breathless, and those who stagger far behind the rest of the group are likely candidates.
Surefire signs of impending illness include extreme fatigue, headache,
loss of appetite, and shortness of breath. If you experience any of these symptoms, the best thing to do is take a break from climbing for a couple days to acclimatize. Once the symptoms disappear, it's safe for you to continue. If the symptoms persist or get worse, you should descend to a lower elevation.
More serious levels of the illness include increasing tiredness, severe headaches, vomiting, and loss of coordination, and are indicative of acute mountain s ickness (AMS). If such symptoms appear, don't hesitate to get immediate medical attention. If serious symptoms go ignored for more than 12 hours, they could have dire--even fatal--effects, such as accumulation of fluid in the lungs or brain. The most important symptom of AMS is loss of coordination. If someone staggers or walks in a drunken gait, check them out for further signs of AMS. A good test is, essentially, the police's test for drunkenness--ask the person to walk in a straight line, placing one foot directly in front of the other without staggering or losing balance. If the person cannot perform, he or she should descend immediately--and never alone. Go slowly and without exertion, and ideally while it's light outside. The descend should continue until symptoms begin to decrease; relief usually occurs within 1,000 to 1,500 feet.
There are prescription drugs out there that you can take for severe symptoms. One of the most common is called Diamox; it works by stimulating your breathing. Diamox is a strong medication and has some slight side effects, such as an annoying tingling in the fingers and toes. You will urinate more frequently so getting out of the tent at night in a storm could be a problem (if you don't use a pee bottle). This will also necessitate you dringing more fluids to compensate. If you take too much I have seen people get very ill. I avoid taking it if if I can.
Brief equipment listPartial Equipment list info:
Here is a brief incomplete list for you. Minus the Climbing gear
2-pairs of shorts for the walk in
3-T-shirts for the walk in
2-bandanas or a sun hat to keep off the sun
Sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen plus zinc
Good sturdy hiking shoes
1-sleeping bag (as warm as you can get)
1-sleeping pad (your choice the more comfortable you are the better you sleep the more energy you will have) you can get a Cr azy Creek chair that goes with your pad this is a good investment.
2-expedition weight Patagonia long underwear tops (or 1 depends on how dirty you like to be)
1-expedition weight Patagonia long underwear bottom
1 lightweight fleece bott o m
1-heavy weight Patagonia or similar fleece jacket
1-Gortex shell jacket
1-Gortex shell pants (full length zippers)
1-Down filled jacket liner from Feathered Friends of Seattle, (optional but I always end up using it)
1-D own filled Gortex guides Parka 1-Warm hat with ear flaps
2-pairs of heavy duty mittens (in case you lose one pair up high)
1-pair fleece gloves 1-pair ski gloves
1-pair of Koflach double plastic boots, One Sport (warmer)($$$) or Asolo (I prefer Koflach, I find them more comfortable)
1-pair of gaitors
1-pair ski poles
1-pair of sharp crampons (test them on your boots before you leave and make sure they fit perfectly)
1-headlamp with extra batteries a nd bulbs
1-cup with spoon attached
1- stove of your choice (I use Markhill stormy hanging stone with butane/propane cartridges, you will have to get fuel in Nepal as it is difficult to fly over) Allow at least 1 canister per day for up high per 2-man tent.
1-4 tents one set up at base camp. one at camp 1, and another 2 for higher up.
3-1-litre waterbottles with insulators (drink at LEAST 5 litres a day to help acclimatize)